The Chef
Claus Henriksen, Denmark

8th of November 2019



The foreplay – 7 amuse-bouches

Raw potato slice with herbs and spices
Pickled turnip with sunflower seeds, junket, horse radish
Pickled redfish and trout
Pillow of malt bread with tarragon and dill crème
Cod tongue with seaweed
Bottom of buckwheat with a variation of mushrooms
Mushroom soup with smoked whipped cream

Champagne André Robert, a combination of 2012-2013, France

The raw potato was invitingly sliced and decorated to look like a menu, and then we were encouraged to roll it. It was beautiful, fresh and delicious.

The pickled turnip was thinly sliced; a delicate treat.

The fish was delicious; however, it didn’t taste of much, and perhaps it ought to come before the two other amuse-bouches.

The dark, smooth, and yet crunchy malt bread was excellent; and the combination between dill and a hint of tarragon was wonderful.

A pleasant surprise – cod tongue! We had tasted it once before, and back then we remained unconvinced as to cod tongue being fit for human food. However, the chef had cooked it perfectly; and it melted in the mouth.

The combination of buckwheat and mushrooms provided an umami experience. It reminded us of tortellini.

The soup was warm, comforting, and it had a hint of chocolate flavour. It was soft and creamy, and if you know anything about post-World War II substitute products, you felt transported back in time.

1st course

“Sun over Dragsholm” – quail egg confit with peels of Jerusalem artichoke

Chardonnay/Sauvignon, Champ Divin Cuvée Castor, Jura, 2018, France

The wine was a find. When combined with this course, it changed character from slightly acidic to a full-bodied, aromatic white wine – and both the acidic and the full-bodied flavour would have worked for different courses. The Jerusalem artichoke peels hung on a string of wire and functioned as spoons; combining the soft egg dish and crustiness. Very delicious.


2nd course

Variations over carrot

Aligoté, Marnes Blanches, Gouffier, Bouzeron, Bourgogne, 2017, France

Due to shellfish allergy, this dish was a replacement for the announced lobster. We disagreed about this one. Charlotte liked it, Christian lacked spice. We took some of the lemon salt from the table, and poured it over, which added a fine twist.


3rd course

Fulskager (regional dish) with whey sauce and leek tops

The same wine as above

A modern take on one of the local dishes, fulskager, which reminded a bit of pork filled tortellini. It tasted good, and you must bear in mind that this kind of food originally is meant to be a bit sticky.


4th course

Grilled monkfish with celery root and red wine sauce

Spätburgunder, Juwel, Alsheim, Rheinhessen, Germany, 2016

A cheeky presentation with the full head of the monkfish on the table giving you every opportunity to study the anatomy of that fish. It was great fun. We disagreed as to the dish. However, it was perfectly cooked, and we can’t blame the chef’s skills. It all came down to personal taste. Charlotte has never been keen on succulent dark sauces, and to her it overshadowed the white meat of the fish. Christian liked it; especially with this wine which tasted of blackberries and red fruits of the forest, and it was wonderful. However, we both thought that a smaller plate would have served the dish better.


5th course

Cabbage confit with matured cow’s fat and sauce on fermented vegetables

Solaris, Souvignier gris, Gylden, Vejrhøj, Odsherred, 2018, Denmark

The second main course was too experimental to our taste. In our opinion, the Danish wine makers yet have to prove themselves, and this was no exception. This orange wine tasted like apricot with vinegar, and even though it became sweeter in combination with the dish, we remained unconvinced as to its qualities. This dish consisted of various types of cabbage, beautifully presented, but the main taste was overshadowed by the cow’s fat. We missed the general idea behind this one. Alas, a low point of the dinner.


6th course

Cheese with bread


Christian decided to step it up with some cheese and the Spätburgunder from the 4th course. He enjoyed three great cheeses from the Arla Unika series.


7th course

Salt baked quince with emulsion of vervain and ice cream with birch bark

Mead, Petersen and Son, Dragsholm, 2018

One thing the Danes know how to make, is mead. Our Viking tradition has been revived, and this mead is produced at the castle. It was full-bodied, yet light, like a milder version of Klein Constantia. The dessert itself was a showpiece of chemistry. Apple juice was heated and ran towards a flask filled with thyme and vervain, and this heated apple beverage was served in ceramic jars. The mild ice cream functioned as a gentle counterweight to the flavoury apple and mead.


Something sweet

Petit fours, crème filled hemp cake and egg-like “caviar”

Caffe latte (or coffee/tea after your inclination)

To finish the evening, we got two petit fours, both very tasty.


To conclude

Slotskøkkenet deserve their Michelin star. It was our second visit there; the first time being New Year’s Eve 2017, where we were impressed by the high standards of the kitchen even on a busy night with more than 100 guests dining at the same time.

Claus Henriksen is renowned for using the produce around the castle and in Lammefjorden, and the menu varies from day to day. He is experimental, and even though the two main courses didn’t live up to our expectations, we acknowledge that he wants to try something different.
The kitchen managed a high level of technique, and we must emphasize that everything was cooked to perfection, even all the difficult types fish.
The staff was friendly and welcoming, and we had a great evening. The highlights were the first and the seventh courses, and we became inspired to try creating something similar ourselves, which is the purpose of our culinary travels.