This review is less detailed than usually, since we were there with friends, and we did not bring our notebook. Therefore, we give you the menu and the wine list without the usual detailed description apart from the conclusion. We cannot eat shellfish (see below), but the menu came like this.

 

Bread

Four different types of bread; among them brioche and sourdough buns

Two types of butter; one with cheese, one with thyme

 

Amuse-bouche

Caviar with crème fraiche and octopus’ disc

Millésime, Guy Michel et Fils, Pierry, Champagne, France 1998

 

1^st course

Razor clam with double crème fraiche, lemon oil and Baeril Prestige Caviar

Gewürztraminer, Jean Becker, Zellenberg, France 1986

 

2^nd course

Langoustine with Nordic seaweed and beurre blanc

Un Jour 1911, André Clouet, Bouzy, France 1997/1998

 

3^rd course

Norwegian scallop with spring greens and browned butter

Nierstein Pettenthal, Riesling Spätlese, Heyl Zu Herrnsheim, Rheinhessen, Germany 1990

 

4^th course

Goose liver parfait with caramelized onion and crisps

Maison Roche De Bellene, Beaune, France, 1996 Premier Cru

 

5^th course

Cannelloni with bisque and morel sauce

V.O.R.S. Bodegas Tradición, Jerez, Spain, 30 Year Amontillado Tradición

 

6^th course

Rabbit with carrot jus and Parmigiano Reggiano

Clos Saint Urbain Rangen De Thann, Pinot Gris, Domaine zind Humbrecht, Thann, France 2001

 

7^th course

Cheeses

Pierre de Segonzac, Pinnau des Charantes, France 1989 Héritage Familial

 

8^th course

Sweet coconut and mango pre-dessert

 

9^th course

Cocoa and citrus fruits

 

10^th course

Petit fours

 

To conclude

The Samuel was awarded a Michelin star just four months after opening, and our expectations were high. Our friends had chosen the restaurant, and beforehand they noticed the kitchen about our shellfish allergy. Summing up: Two people could eat shellfish, two could not. The restaurant excels in seafood, and with 850 metres to the sea (as well as weeks to prepare for a common allergy), we thought it would be easy for them to present alternatives.

Apparently not. For all three seafood courses the chef had simply removed the protein, not replaced them. Scallops, langoustine, and razor clam are not difficult to replace. In the nearby sea swim cod and halibut. The result was three almost similar courses with salad and a sauce. Our friends got the full experience – we all paid for the full experience. We felt a bit neglected and downcast due to the lack of consideration.

There were many positive things. Almost everything was prepared and presented flawlessly (apart from the cannelloni; it was a bit grainy, and the morels did not shine through), the flavours were fine (even though the two of us got a bit tired of salad and sauce without fish!) and the atmosphere is friendly.

The sommelier’s knowledge and enthusiasm when she presented the exquisite wines deserve praise and recognition. It is one of the best wine menus we have experienced to date.

The bread selection is definitely worth mentioning, too. The waiter arrived with a trolly with four different breads, which he delivered in small baskets, and there was no cheapness about the bread. The basket was filled several times during the evening.

The Samuel has become renowned for its special cheeses. Jonathan K. Berntsen is a member of The French cheese association, Guilde Internationale des Fromagers, and the cheeses were beautifully displayed at the entrance. When we got to the cheeses, we were led downstairs to a presentation. A minor detail, but: We were huddled together with another table. We know it is practical, but it felt less exclusive and more like class education, when you are put together with another party.

After the presentation, we were led back to the table, and a few minutes later our plates arrived. Considering the excessiveness of cheeses, it was a bit disappointing only getting a teaspoon of each cheese – for some of them, you barely got the taste of it before it had disappeared in your mouth.

So: Keep up the good work with the atmosphere, the bread, the wine, and the composition of the courses. There is room for improvement when it comes to compensating for allergies and amount of cheese.

Six years after our first visit at Henne Kirkeby Kro, the restaurant now has two Michelin stars and a reputation as one of the best Danish restaurants, which is quite an achievement being based in the most western part of Denmark without possibilities of regular public transportation or an urban population to drop by. You never pass by accident. You only go there if you want to. Henne Kirkeby Kro is absolutely worth the journey.

Since 2012, the cuisine of English-born Paul Cunningham has transformed the small local inn into a modern and charming need-to-go.

The evening menu ”Vores Henne” (Our Henne). We would describe the kitchen as a combination of New Nordic and Modern British with emphasis on local produce. They grow their own vegetables and keep a few animals, and the protein is, when possible, from local farms. There were two wine menus, Our Dinner and Our Prestige. We chose the less expensive Our Dinner.

 

1^st-3^rd course

House charcuterie, pickled chilli, tomato, and hazelnut

Smoked cod roe and salted lumpfish roe with lemon cream and crisps

Pressed rabbit, carrot, fennel, coriander seed

Pol Roger, Champagne, France, 2015

Rosé, Chateau Romassan, Domaine Ott, France, 2018

For the amouse bouches, we chose the classic champagne, which proved to be a good choice. The first snack was five slices of charcuterie: duck breast, ox rump, ham, bresaola, and fennel salami, simple and beautifully arranged with pickled tomato, chilli, and hazel nut. Each slice had a distinct, yet subtle, flavour, and the cut-outs were a delicious tribute to meat.

The second amouse bouche was an opulent and generous plate of cod roe and lumpfish roe on lemon creme fraiche with crisps as scooping tools. Even though mixed, it was easy to distinguish the cod and the lumpfish, and ”since the season for lumpfish roe is so short, we don’t want to be seem cheap about it,” as the waiter said when asked about the huge serving. With that size, we worried how we should get through the rest of the evening, but our concerns were unnecessary. For one course, they wanted the concept to be ”gluttony”, and we enjoyed every mouthful. Salty and crunchy crisps applauded the sweet and salty mix of roe.

The third amouse bouche was the highlight of the evening: Rabbit terrine with such delicate flavours that even though everything else was equally perfect, this just stood out. The meat was moist and flavourful, probably the best rabbit which we have ever had. In the middle of the 20^th century, rabbit was ”poor man’s food” in Denmark, being easy to breed and raise, but now most people connect the white, light meat with pets or oddities in the French or the Indian cuisine.

For the rabbit, they impromptu served the rosé wine, which smelled of peaches and had a clear, bitter flavour. A sweet and flavourful Riesling would – to our taste – had been a better option; for instance, the wine served for the fourth course.

Bread

Our Lilibet, our butter

Paul Cunningham always names his bread after a famous person, and this season’s sour dough bread is a tribute to HM Elizabeth II for her 70th jubilee year. It was served with a huge lump of thyme and rosemary butter, freshly made. Yes, lump! A fistful of butter on a plate – and we loved it.

4^th course

Thai chicken, Poulet Label Rouge

Ürziger Würzgarten, Alte Reben, Dr. Herman, Mosel, Germany, 2020

It is bold to serve a Thai inspired chicken with strong and spicy flavours for a starter – especially in Denmark, where most people (not us) choke on anything more than a pepper corn. The chicken was served in a coconut sauce with lime, chilli, ginger, and lemongrass. The strength of the spices swept across your tongue, combined with the juiciness and sweetness of the chicken and coconut. The chicken was a replacement for the crab, which we due to shellfish allergy could not have, and it was so elegantly done that we did not think of it as a replacement. That constitutes a good chef: That he makes his guests feel that every course is made for THEM, no matter the circumstances.

Now we had the sweet, flavourful, and fat Riesling, which we would have recommended for the third amouse bouche – well knowing that amouse bouches not require to be part of the wine menu. However, this wine was delightful for this course as well.

 

5^th course

Grilled monkfish, ramson and lemon butter

Rully, David Moret, Bourgogne, France, 2019

After the Thai-inspired chicken, we wondered how they could return to Modern British/New Nordic, but with the grilled monkfish, the chef made a gentle geographical return. The ramson and lemon butter still had a hint of Asian cuisine; it was a flawless turnaround. Gentle flavours, perfectly seasoned, of course.

The wine was dry, with a hint of bitterness and elderflower. It really complimented the monkfish.

 At this point we semi-concluded that apart from one wine pairing, which actually was not an official part of the menu, everything had been spot on. The waiters were attentive and knowledgeable. We had two: A trainee and a fully educated waiter; both smiling and present.

 

6^th course

Lamb from Varde Ådal with new onions and black garlic

Brunello di Montalcino, Querce Bettina, Toscana, Italy, 2009

The main course was local lamb, served two ways. As a small roast and as a lamb pie – with greetings to the chef’s English origins. Spring onions and black garlic complemented the protein, and it was, naturally, exquisitely executed.

The Brunello was velvety and soft, with a slight scent of petroleum, which turned into a hint of cherry on the palate. The pairing was fine, maybe a bit anonymous to the richness of the lamb, but at this point one of the waiters had presented my husband with an alternative wine, which just added the last touch.

 

7^th course

Cream panna cotta, roast rhubarb, cinnamon, pink pepper, and pistachio with ginger ice cream

3 Puttonyos Tokaji Aszú, Oremus, Tokaj, Hungary, 2016

To us, Tokaj is always a popular choice, and the dessert wine with a taste of raisin is a good match for the fat panna cotta, because the Tokaj turns a bit bitter with the sweet dessert. The execution of the dessert was excellent.

 

8^th course

Dark chocolate Marquis, vanilla, and ice wine vinegar 

Cape Tawny, Niepoort & Sadie, Swartland, South Africa, 2009

We do not know if it was intended, but to us, this dessert looked and tasted like a tribute to the Danish/German traditional ”kiksekage” (biscuit cake, a cold chocolate cake) with layers of chocolate in between biscuits. Here, the biscuits were replaced by another type of chocolate. It was perfect with the wine, and again, our senses were satisfied with well-balanced flavours.

 

9^th course

Old English cream fudge and cherry tonka jelly

Coffee

The final addition was the fudge and jelly – naturally with great flavours as a perfect end to a wonderful evening.

 

To conclude

When we first visited Henne Kirkebo Kro in 2016, they had one Michelin star, and it is obvious that they have upped their game. The second star is well deserved. This is one of the best Danish restaurants, and yes, we know the competition is fierce. Paul Cunningham and the owners of Henne Kirkeby Kro have managed to create a small haven in the most western part of Jutland, with no large population or efficient infrastructure to back it up, but with dedication, passion, and focus and local produce and flavours.

During the evening, Christian was several times served a taste of another wine, and the professionalism and presence of the waiters made you feel at home.

From our check-in in the afternoon until next morning, we felt welcome. The nature surrounding the inn may be harsh, the wind can be wild, but the environment in and around the inn makes you feel comfortable. The efforts of Paul Cunningham and his team are definitely worth both 2 stars – maybe even 3! – and require a visit.

 

 

After lockdown and restrictions, we had looked forward to this evening, where we finally reached 50 individual Michelin stars (with revisits: 70) on all levels.

We have heard much about “Ti Trin Ned” since its first Michelin star in 2017. Since then, the restaurant has moved to a new location by the harbour. The interior holds Danish design classics, it is a simple, modern look with almost all seats facing the water. Their food reflects this simplicity and is, naturally, inspired by seafood and the four seasons.

There were three possible wine menus: standard, experimental, luxury. We went for the standard menu, which was an excellent choice. It convinced us that no matter the financial range of your dinner (even though a Michelin restaurant still is high-end), the chefs and the sommeliers have put thought and care into the wine pairings.

 

1^st-3^rd course

Apple marinated in dill, salted cucumber, and pickled, white currant served with roe of pike and fat yoghurt

Crisp potato flower with caviar and smoked mayonnaise

Tomato bouillon with tagetes oil

NV, l’Avatique, Mouzon-Leroux Champagne, France, 2015

The three amouse bouches were a forecast of the simple and distinct, yet delicate flavours which are the essence of Ti Trin Ned.

The champagne was dry with a hint of apple acid, and it matched all three amouse bouches perfectly. It was a complimentary choice, enhancing the fresh flavours and underlining the ingredients.

The first amouse bouche with pike, apple, and cucumber showed us that the chefs had a clear idea about what they wanted to present. The flavours were fresh and distinct, and it boded well for the evening.

Caviar on a crisp potato flower sounds like a great idea, and we were told it was a particularly flavourful caviar. However, that deliciousness almost disappeared when eating it all in one bite. We will recommend starting with the caviar on top, and then going down through the beautiful flower of potato and mayonnaise, like a finishing “fish and chips”.

The green tomato bouillon was originally served with lobster, which had been removed due to shellfish allergy. However, we didn’t miss it. The soup was delicate, rich, and distinct. The tagetes oil added a hint of flower and contrast to the velvety bouillon without giving the dreaded smell of soap.

Before the fourth course, the bread arrived: A trio of different sorts: a dark malt bread with walnuts, a lighter bread on sourdough, and a bread on oat and wheat. There was plenty of it, and it was supplemented with a fill-up when needed. It tasted wonderfully.

 

4^th course

Kohlrabi and baby zucchini with halibut and a consommé on verbena and basil

Silvaner Alte Reben, Weingut Saalwächter, Rheingau, Germany, 2019

The first proper starter continued with the delicate and fine flavours, and it was presented in a sea of consommé making it look like a jellyfish on the seabed. To our taste, 4-5 salt flakes would have enhanced the flavour, but it was a beautifully composed dish, which definitely stood out.

The Silvaner was fresh with mineral flavours and went from an acidy aftertaste to bitterness when the food was added. It was a perfect wine pairing.

 

5^th course

Brill with fennel and coriander with butter sauce

Mâcon Milly-Lamartine – Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon Bourgogne, France, 2018

Fennel and coriander usually divide people into absolutes of pros or cons, but not today. We both love coriander, while fennel is avoided by one of us. However, the kitchen managed to give hints of both without overshadowing the brill, and we enjoyed it immensely. Again, 4-5 salt flakes could have enhanced the course – and writing that: If that is all you miss during an entire evening, it is pretty perfect.

The white Burgundy had a fresh and dry undertone, which is a bit unusual from Burgundy, but it was delightful and added character. It was probably a result of the grapes being harvested early in the season, and again, it was a perfect match to the fragile flavours of the brill.

 

6^th course

Grilled shallots with caviar on matured ox sauce and elderflower

Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling – Hofgut Falkenstein Mosel, Germany, 2020

The Riesling smelled of dry minerals, but transformed into a more intense, sweeter wine in your mouth. It was a pleasant surprise, and somehow managed to contrast the sweetness of the onions very well.

The onions were halved and grilled, and they kept their structure with a crunch, without going jellylike. The abundance of caviar on the top functioned as salt, and the almost consommé-inspired sauce was based on a recipe to kill for. This course was one of many that showed us that the chefs excel in mixing few, but distinct ingredients.

 

7^th course

Veal chops with pointed cabbage and sauce on chicken fond

Motor Callet – 4 Kilos Mallorca, Spain, 2019

Ahh, veal chops! Delicious! We thought that this was the main course and had barely overcome our joy, when they announced that there was another one to come. But first things first.

The easy way out for this course is a light Bordeaux, and it would have been a perfectly acceptable choice. However, this Spanish wine was a bold and good choice. The first impression was acid with a hint of strawberry and barely any aftertaste. However, when combined with the veal, the Motor Callet unfolded and got an acidic flavour which stayed on your tongue. Well done!

Need we add that the veal chops with a leaf of pointed cabbage on top were beautifully plated and tasted heavenly?

 

8^th course

Grilled deer with caramelized and grilled rhubarb, miso, and game fond

Chianti Classico – Tenuta di Carleone Toscana, Italy, 2017

After many restaurant visits, we have learned that the main course often is the Achilles’ heel of the kitchen. Not from lack of trying, but because it often ends with a combination of dark meat, potatoes, and sauce in endless variations.

However, we had now come to the main course, and what a surprise. Often, deer can seem grainy and taste of white flour. Not this time. The deer was grilled, but the middle was red, moist, and simply just beautiful to look at. It was flawless, and the taste was excellent.

The game fond added even more flavours, but the highlight of this course was, impossible as it may seem after complimenting the deer: the rhubarb. Small pieces of rhubarb added acid and sweetness, and it enhanced everything else on the plate. Actually, the rhubarb deserves its own course. It was perfect here, and it will be perfect in its own right.

The light Chianti was rich on tannins and had cherry flavours which supported and underlined the deer perfectly.

 

9^th course

Cheese: Trefold and Kronly from Arla Unika with roasted yeast and honey on a malt biscuit

Kopp Riesling Kabinett, Weingut Von Othegraven, Mosel, Germany, 2019

Cheese was not on the menu from the beginning, but the waiter asked if we wanted any and suggested sharing. So, we did, and we didn’t regret it. We have written it before: The cheese board doesn’t show the skills of the chef, only a selection of their personal taste. This time, we were wrong.

The two cheeses were combined in one dish: One on top of a malt biscuit, the other grated generously over the first one, creating a fluffy snow cone. It was easy to split in two parts, and we each enjoyed our half, where the combinations worked brilliantly together. The biscuit was the superior Godfather of the Digestives: Homemade, rich, structured, yet moist.

The Riesling had a distinct smell of petroleum and ensnared but fooled the senses. When drinking it, we got a clear, sweet peach, which again matched the cheese perfectly.

 

10^th course

Granité with garden acid on vanilla foam, with mint leaves

“They hit that one in solar plexus,” we said. This refreshening in-between before the final course was not ‘just another’ granité, but the vanilla foam added a velvety sweetness to the acid nodes of mint and tea in the granité. Often, granité can have frozen lumps, but not this one. It was extremely light. We loved it.

 

11^th course

Creamy pumpkin ice cream with apples and pumpkin

Haus Klosterberg Riesling Auslese – Markus Molitor, Mosel, Germany, 2019

Again, as we wrote during the first courses, the kitchen had maintained their light, delicate, yet distinct flavours, even when using a rich and sweet pumpkin. The ice cream was presented in a bowl surrounded by a clear soup and small dice of apple and pumpkin.

The wine had nodes of acidy Granny Smith apples and elderflower, and it supplemented the sweet, creamy pumpkin beautifully.

It was a perfect last course.

 

To conclude

Ti Trin Ned is inspired by the neighbouring sea and the Danish seasons. The chefs followed that through, during all courses, and there were no mistakes or unnecessary experiments. Not that they don’t experiment. They do – and they succeed. Their ideas are clear and consistent from the beginning to the end.

The staff is friendly, professional, and knowledgeable. There are two waiters sharing the sommelier job, and both presented the wines with many great details, and they clearly knew what they were talking about. The chefs (who also are the owners) know their ingredients well, and they definitely succeed in carrying out their mission with flavourful, delicate, and enticing courses.

Overall, Ti Trin Ned is one of the best Danish restaurants, we have visited.

 

 

Our first visit at Frederikshøj was in 2016, and back then we wrote: “Intelligent food, well thought out wine pairings, and a staff that really impressed. A very good, wholesome experience.” Four years later, Frederikshøj had kept their high standards, and it was even better, because the staff seemed more at ease with their roles, and the chef still made fun and playful food.

This time, we were joined by a couple of friends, and we all ordered the big menu – 10 courses with 6 amuse bouches – and the complimentary wine pairing. Our friends do not suffer from shellfish allergy, and the kitchen managed to produce both the original menu for them and some inventive alternatives for us.

 

1st – 6th course

Carrot with smoked curd cheese

Smoked quail eggs with whitefish roe

Beef tartare and swede with puffy rice

Beetroot and coriander

Potato pie with asparagus

Parsley made three ways (crispy, creamy, and foamy)

Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne, Blanc de Blancs, France, 2007

The six amuse bouches arrived at the same time, beautifully presented on different plates. We began with the carrot, which was put through ‘a hole in the ground’. The carrot was deconstructed and then reassembled; with a top made of dill, a crunchy surface, and a soft middle. It boded well for the rest of the evening.

The quail egg was peeled and smoked, giving it an orange marble pattern, and it tasted wonderful.

The beef tartare and swede were shaped and decorated like a poisonous fly agaric and put on ice for keeping the structure. It was innovative and delicious.

The we had a take on potato pie with asparagus crème, again a precise dish.

The last was parsley presented three ways: Foam and structure on a finely salted parsley crisp.

Overall, the colours and flavours were wonderful. It was possible to distinguish and appreciate all the ingredients, and the champagne was a good choice with a hint of sweetness to the savoury amuse bouches.

 

7th course

Tomato gel with pork cheeks and kohlrabi

Kumeu River, Hawkes Bay, Sauvignon Blanc, Auckland, New Zealand, 2018

The tomato gel and pork cheeks were served as small, translucent triangles, decorated with kohlrabi and a tomato jus. The dish had a wonderful acidity and freshness, which was complemented by the hints of mineral in the wine.

 

8th course

Lumpfish roe with celery, cucumber, and onion

Kumeu River, Hawkes Bay, Sauvignon Blanc, Auckland, New Zealand, 2018

This course was both sweet, salt, and sour but still with clear distinctions between the different flavours and experiences – quite an achievement to make every flavour count. It was served in a soup bowl with a foamy jus, and the wine from before also matched this dish superbly.

 

9th course

Pollack and apples with Arla Unika Gammelknas cheese

Ribeira Sacra, A Fuga, Abadia da Cova, Spain, 2019

The structure and the contrasts were great, and this was absolutely one of our two favourite dishes.

The sommelier likes mineral wines, and his pairings were flawless. The flint flavour shone through and complemented the pollack and apples, served as a beautiful green and white swirl in a large oyster shell on seaweed. The cheese gave a wonderful balance to the acidity in the apples, and it was a perfect combination with the pollack.

 

10th course

Salmon, pear, and almonds with salmon roe

Jéréme Huche & Jérémie Mourat, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clisson, Loire, France, 2017

When we all agreed that this was the weakest dish, it was based on flavour only. The finely sliced pears had a good structure, but their smell and taste were not as distinct in combination with the salmon. We think that sour apples or kohlrabi would have been a better choice. But this was the only flaw of the evening, and there was nothing wrong with the execution, only the combinations of flavour.

 

11th course

Cod with an emulsion of peas and miso sauce

Anderson Valley, FEL, Chardonnay, 2018

Cooking a cod perfectly is a matter of counting the seconds, and all four cods were exactly spot on! The cod was covered in green pea emulsion, and covered with peas, leaves, and blue flowers. The light brown miso sauce was a perfect addition. This was a precise and superbly executed dish with the bright and tasteful Chardonnay as complementing wine.

 

12th course

Forest chicken with gherkin, truffle, and pansy

Domaine du Clos Salomon, Givry 1er Cru, Clos Salomon, Bourgogne, France 2013

The forest chicken was created as a reverse tartelette with a flat top decorated like a sunflower with a round slice of truffle in the middle and yellow pansy leaves around it; on a green bottom sprawled with dried cucumber.

Chicken is almost always a difficult protein, since it is hard to make flavourful, but they succeeded by chopping it into small bites and mixing the gherkin into it. Normally gherkin is served as a sour, pickled side order to pork, but thankfully they chose to give us the original vegetable, which was surprisingly sweet.

For the chicken, the sommelier turned to a Premier Cru red wine, and it was an excellent choice.

 

13th course

Beef with mushrooms and chanterelles

Saint-Estèphe, 2^nd Vin Château Montrose, La Dame de Montrose, Bordeaux, France, 2014

The main course was beef with a layer of mushroom crème on the top – placed on the side to give way for a large portion of sauce with chopped mushrooms and chanterelles. A brilliant idea to let the ingredients switch places like that. The meat was perfectly cooked, and the succulent sauce deserved all the attention it got.

The red wine was mild, and somehow underplaying its role, it complemented the dish as it should.

 

14th course

Caviar in lemon

Water

This was cut in slices of one-eight of a lemon filled with caviar, and prepared so it tasted like white chocolate with notes of lemon and a tiny hint of liquorice.

The waiter recommended water or sparkling water to this, and he was right. Almost any wine would have overshadowed the delicate flavours, and we enjoyed the small, almost mind-cleansing dessert.

 

15th course

Soft-boiled egg – caramel with gooseberry

Stallmann-Hiestand, Riesling Auslese, Dienheimer Kreuz, Rheinhessen, Germany, 2015

In a golden egg arrived a small, brown caramel egg with a crusty shell and a soft middle with gooseberry for the yolk. It was an ingenious dish, which was perfect with the sweet Riesling.

 

16th course

Raspberry rhapsody with cream

Stallmann-Hiestand, Riesling Auslese, Dienheimer Kreuz, Rheinhessen, Germany, 2015

This was our second favourite of the evening – bulbs, atmospheres and ice cream transformed raspberries in different shades of red. Such rich flavours, still both sweet and sour, and we could not wish for a better finish to this elaborately and brilliantly executed dinner.

 

To conclude

This was one of the best experiences we have had at a one-star restaurant, and even though there are many contenders in Aarhus, Wassim Hallal and his staff still rule the local restaurant scene.

The staff was observant, welcoming and at ease, and we had a great evening. The courses and the wine arrived in a continuous flow with a perfect timing, and at no point we felt that the pace was rushed; or that we had waited too long.

The wines were of high quality, and they matched the food perfectly. There were no experimental pairings, however, we did not miss tasting exotic wines from lesser known wine countries. Wine and food matched, and it was one of the best pairings of complimentary wines, we have ever experienced.

This was one of the best evenings we have had at a Danish Michelin-restaurant, and we will happily return another time.

 

The setting for Kadeau on Bornholm is beautiful. With a view to the beach in a building looking like an enlarged summer cottage, it is no wonder that Kadeau has become a success, when Bornholm is flooding with tourists. However, the tourist segment seems like a curse, too. Being tourists ourselves, we had at least made an effort to dressing appropriately, but many showed up in shorts, t-shirts, and clothing more suitable for a cheap beach barbecue.

High expectations preceded this visit. Kadeau has been highly promoted by Danish media; partly because it is on the island Bornholm and the first Michelin-awarded restaurant there, partly because the Kadeau restaurants in Bornholm and Copenhagen both have Michelin stars (1 and 2) with the same staff alternating between the two restaurants according to the season.

We ordered the experimenting wine pairing, and – well, let us just say that if that pairing was experimenting, we are glad that we did not order the classic solution. The best thing that can be said about the wine is that it was dull. The worst part was when we were served the restaurant’s own apple cider, and it had a clear smell and taste of cow manure, which one of the waiters told us was intended. Fair enough, they removed the glasses and replaced the cider with white wine.

The menu was, as always, altered to fit Christian’s shellfish allergy, and we asked to get a copy of the menu including the wine list afterwards. The waiter told us that she would e-mail it, but so far it has not happened.

The dinner consisted of 16 servings, and honestly, we had expected more. The local produce from Bornholm shone through, as it should, but there were very few eureka moments.

When the highlight is the Australian waiter, it is going to be difficult. Well, we got to do what we set out to do, so here it comes.

 

1st and 2nd course

Root beet slices with quince and Lyme grass + aged ham slices sprinkled with cherry blossoms and freeze-dried tomatoes

Marie Courton champagne.

The welcoming champagne accompanied the starters. We got a refill of champagne, when our glasses were empty, which is always positive.

The flavours were good, but the strawberry was overshadowed by the tomatoes.

 

3rd course and 4th course

Rye bread with smoked mackerel and fresh cheese + fermented pearl onion with blackcurrant leaves and walnut.

We were still on the champagne. The fermented pearl onion was fresh and gave a good acidic contrast to the fat mackerel. It was a perfect combination.

 

5th course

Preserved pear, tomato, Nobilis (pickled pinecone) and coriander

Freshly pickled pinecone has a hint of ananas, and this was topped by sundried tomatoes and seaweed oil.

The tomatoes overshadowed the pinecone, even though the idea was excellent. Still, we were presented with champagne for the starters.

 

6th course

Peas with sliced fresh, green figs in a tomato jus

Stefan Vetter, Sylvaner, 2017

The peas with figs and tomatoes was a wonderful combination. The flavours hinted coconut, and they would have been even better with a sprinkle of salt. The wine deserved to be a bit colder, and the dish would have been better off with more bubbly champagne.

This wine lacked character, there was no specific hint of spices or character which could lift the peas and the figs to a higher level.

 

7th course

Potato salad with garden nasturtium and oyster leaf

Stefan Vetter, Sylvaner, 2017

We continued with this wine, which still did not have any distinct flavours, and here, again, champagne would have been better. The dish deserved some acidity and sparkle, which the rather bland white wine did not provide.

The potato salad had good combinations, even though one of us thought that it was a bit ordinaire.

 

8th course

Cold and hot smoked salmon with cheese sauce.

Apple cider, Nørla, 2018

The cider is the pride of Kadeau brewed on apples from Bornholm and matured on oak. However, this one had the distinct taste and smell of cow manure, almost as if it were infected with Brettanomyces, which supposedly was intentionally. Who wants to dine in a cow stable?

Sadly, it overshadowed the salmon (from the Faeroe Islands), which was one of the highlights of the evening. It was deliciously served with a cheese sauce, and here Kadeau showed us how far quality produce combined with the chef’s fantasy can carry you. Without the cider, this was the best course of the evening.

 

9th course

Palthæst (pancake) with cheese (Havgus) and flowers

Apple cider, Nørla, 2018 replaced with Stéphane Tissot, Jura, 2017

This local speciality was a thick slice of pancake sprinkled with cheese and small flowers, so it looked like an elaborately decorated spider’s web or a forest. Beautiful and creative.

It tasted wonderfully, and luckily the staff had replaced the cider with a white wine from Stéphane Tissot. It was miles better than the cider – but sadly, still, the experiments in this wine menu failed to reveal themselves for us.

 

10th course

Bonfire-baked onion

Muster, Sauvignon, 2017

The wine was light with a taste of minerals and fruits, and it suited the powerful, yet light onion. The wine added acidity, and this pairing was the only one that evening that worked to perfection. A bit of saltwort would have perfected the dish.

 

11th course

Brown cabbage with Belgian caviar and walnut

Muster, Sauvignon, 2017

We continued with the same wine for the caviar on the cabbage, which was fine. A tiny sprinkle of salt would have worked wonders, here, too, just to enhance the caviar. The combination of cabbage and caviar was an excellent idea, but the cabbage overshadowed the expensive caviar.

 

12th course

Chicken spear with pork fat, green tomato, and plum

Melecsky, 2017

This Slovenian red wine was a new and positive experience. It was a Slovenian Blaufränkisch with a note of pepper. Powerful, but light.

The chicken lacked flavour, taste, spice, and power. It was served with small a bowl of chicken bouillon, which sadly lacked flavour too. We know how good chicken can be, and this was boring and badly executed.

 

13th course

Pork, mushrooms, and red berries

Cabernet Franc, 2017

This dry, yet acidic red wine also had hints of pepper. It was nice, but the Slovenian wine had been a better choice.

The pork was a disappointment. It was clearly overcooked, and it was dry, so neither of us finished it. The three tiny chanterelle mushrooms and miniscule berries added not much but were the best things on the plate.

We were offered another pork but declined. We were not convinced that the other similarly processed pork dishes would have changed our opinion.

 

14th course

Raspberry, crème fraiche and nasturtium

Jakob Peter Kühn, Riesling, 2017

The wine was nice, not too overpowering or sweet, but it still played well against the raspberries. It was a nice dessert.

 

15th course

Goat milk ice cream, rosemary, and spring honey

Jakob Peter Kühn, Riesling, 2017

A good and light dessert – especially with the bee pollen crumble.

 

16th course

Honey cake with blueberries and butter

Jakob Peter Kühn, Riesling, 2017

Nice, easy dessert cake – not flashy, just nice. Overall, the desserts were not overwhelmingly inspired. They tasted good but was a firework of a finale.

 

To conclude

Overall, the courses were well executed – apart from the two main courses. Sadly, because the main courses are supposed to be the highlights of the party. It was all very fresh with a rich use of vegetables, but it was not as imaginative as expected. Then combined with the boring “experimenting” wine pairing, we were left disappointed.

The portion sizes were almost perfect, and the waiters were obliging and attentive. Apart from two of them, they were smiling and did their best. Besides, we got a discount for the failed apple cider and main course.

The surroundings are amazing, but the room was overcrowded. We were among the first to arrive, but as the evening progressed, social distancing was hard to uphold. The nearest two tables were barely 1 metre away.

When we arrived, it was with the assumption that this visit would be followed by dinner on their 2-star restaurant in Copenhagen. They have the same chefs and staff. But now we would rather try something else. All in all, we are not convinced that Kadeau on Bornholm deserves its one star.

 

Amuse-bouches

Mushroom and celery
Dumpling and cod
Red deer with dill and ramson
Egg and cabbage
Sour dough and smoked cheese
Beetroot and cheese
Potato and ox heart
Pork and barbeque

José Dhondt, Champagne, France

The eight snacks or amuse-bouches were all beautifully presented. Due to shellfish allergy, we got red deer with cheese and dill and ramson, which inspired us to use more dill with red meat. This was served raw like carpaccio, which was an excellent choice.

The highlight was the beetroot and cheese, where we sensed that the chefs had had fun while thinking out new ways to use the local produce. Its presentation could have won a bake-off competition.

The champagne was a blancs de blancs. A mild and gentle flavour which suited the amuse-bouches.

 

1st course

Leek, strawberry, and dill

Galsgaard 2018, white wine, Denmark

A whole leek presented like a fish course, with pieces of leek and green strawberries inside it. The dish was perfectly executed, and it was a playful and fresh dish to begin with.

As the wine goes, we do wish that someone had the courage to dismiss Danish wine until it has reached a drinkable quality. This one was like drinking light apricot soda without the fizziness.

 

2nd course

Sweetbread (thymus) with cucumber and nobilis (pinecone)

Schnaitmann 2017, Riesling, Germany

Normally, the main ingredient in this course would be lobster, and the taste of that would have been more dominant than the sweetbread was. We disagreed about this course. Christian thought that both the nobilis (pinecone leaves) and the sweetbread were flavourless, and he thought that the sweetbread’s texture was rubbery. Charlotte liked the apple taste of the nobilis as well as the taste and texture of the sweetbread. The wine was more acidic than sweet, which suited this course – no matter our disagreements.

 

3rd course
Celery, butter milk, and lavender

Marche Bianco 2018, Terre Silvate, Italy

The wine had a hint of honeydew melon, and the balance between the wine and the baked celery with its slightly salted and dry buttermilk sauce was excellent. The hint of lavender was never overwhelming, and this dish was our favourite. It was so simple, still funny and well executed. If we should have had one of the courses twice, this would be our choice.

 

4th course

Cod, Jerusalem artichoke, and honey

Johannes Zillinger, Burgland, 2016 (10 %), 2017 (10 %), 2018 (80 %)

The wine was sweet and flavoury, and its taste of honey served the cod well. The cod, however, had just had 10-20 seconds too much before serving – and we do know that this particular fish is a tricky one! Otherwise, the dish was well prepared, and the flavours served the slightly acidic wine. The quenelle with hemp seeds and crab apples was very delicious; and contrasted the white cod beautifully.

 

5th course

Onion, ramson, and liver

Roussillon, Domaine Armaget, Cuvée Lulu, rosé, 2017

This course was exactly what the menu said: An onion. It was served in a chicken liver sauce and seasoned with ramson. It was a light dish with lots of umami, and the wine combination was perfect.

 

6th course

Venison, elderberries, and dill

Fond Cyprès, Syrah de la Pinelle, 2017, France

The waiter announced that the venison would be served very rare – bleu. We love our meat this way, and nothing else would have fitted this dish. It needed a pinch of salt to enhance the venison, and the waiter got that for us. The venison was the centre piece, and there was nothing else to it apart from the dill, the berries, and the sauce. Nothing else. Simple and delicious with a wonderful wine, which had the smell and taste of a powerful Pinot Noir.

 

7th course

Sea buckthorn with cream and beetroot

Seehof 2018, Fass 10, Riesling, Germany

The wine tasted of mild passion fruit, and it complemented the dessert excellently. The ice cream with sea buckthorn was delicious, and so was the beetroot sauce. However, the liquorice notes became too dominant if you didn’t hold back on the beetroot sauce.

 

8th course

Jerusalem artichoke with barley and hazelnut

Chateau Barouillet, Montazar 2017, Bordeaux, France

This ice cream made from Jerusalem artichokes had a wonderful structure, and the fresh hazelnuts and barleys contrasted its earthly flavours beautifully. The wine contrasted very well.

 

Coffee and sweets

Pumpkin and woodruff
Ice cream cake with meringue
Swiss roll with strawberry

After the full menu we decided to finish the evening with the finishing touches, and they certainly lived up to the expectations. Beautifully plated cakes were placed before us, and even after 16 servings, we enjoyed them.

 

To conclude

The chefs had managed to structure a full menu well, with suitable sized portions, and we were happy that we had chosen the more advanced and experimental wine menu instead of the more expensive and safer choices. Many wines were biodynamic, and even though some of the producers still have a long way to travel (hence the Danish experience), we enjoyed being presented for something different. A small hiccup: All the wine was stored at 17°C, and it was a couple of degrees too warm for our taste.

Our waiter was charming and smiling, and he told us that he was a trained chef, too. This educational combination really shone through, and it was evident that he knew what he was serving. We enjoyed this dialogue.

All in all, Domestic’s Michelin star is solid and well-deserved. This was our second visit to the restaurant, and definitely not our last.

The foreplay – 7 amuse-bouches

Raw potato slice with herbs and spices
Pickled turnip with sunflower seeds, junket, horse radish
Pickled redfish and trout
Pillow of malt bread with tarragon and dill crème
Cod tongue with seaweed
Bottom of buckwheat with a variation of mushrooms
Mushroom soup with smoked whipped cream

Champagne André Robert, a combination of 2012-2013, France

The raw potato was invitingly sliced and decorated to look like a menu, and then we were encouraged to roll it. It was beautiful, fresh and delicious.

The pickled turnip was thinly sliced; a delicate treat.

The fish was delicious; however, it didn’t taste of much, and perhaps it ought to come before the two other amuse-bouches.

The dark, smooth, and yet crunchy malt bread was excellent; and the combination between dill and a hint of tarragon was wonderful.

A pleasant surprise – cod tongue! We had tasted it once before, and back then we remained unconvinced as to cod tongue being fit for human food. However, the chef had cooked it perfectly; and it melted in the mouth.

The combination of buckwheat and mushrooms provided an umami experience. It reminded us of tortellini.

The soup was warm, comforting, and it had a hint of chocolate flavour. It was soft and creamy, and if you know anything about post-World War II substitute products, you felt transported back in time.

1st course

“Sun over Dragsholm” – quail egg confit with peels of Jerusalem artichoke

Chardonnay/Sauvignon, Champ Divin Cuvée Castor, Jura, 2018, France

The wine was a find. When combined with this course, it changed character from slightly acidic to a full-bodied, aromatic white wine – and both the acidic and the full-bodied flavour would have worked for different courses. The Jerusalem artichoke peels hung on a string of wire and functioned as spoons; combining the soft egg dish and crustiness. Very delicious.

 

2nd course

Variations over carrot

Aligoté, Marnes Blanches, Gouffier, Bouzeron, Bourgogne, 2017, France

Due to shellfish allergy, this dish was a replacement for the announced lobster. We disagreed about this one. Charlotte liked it, Christian lacked spice. We took some of the lemon salt from the table, and poured it over, which added a fine twist.

 

3rd course

Fulskager (regional dish) with whey sauce and leek tops

The same wine as above

A modern take on one of the local dishes, fulskager, which reminded a bit of pork filled tortellini. It tasted good, and you must bear in mind that this kind of food originally is meant to be a bit sticky.

 

4th course

Grilled monkfish with celery root and red wine sauce

Spätburgunder, Juwel, Alsheim, Rheinhessen, Germany, 2016

A cheeky presentation with the full head of the monkfish on the table giving you every opportunity to study the anatomy of that fish. It was great fun. We disagreed as to the dish. However, it was perfectly cooked, and we can’t blame the chef’s skills. It all came down to personal taste. Charlotte has never been keen on succulent dark sauces, and to her it overshadowed the white meat of the fish. Christian liked it; especially with this wine which tasted of blackberries and red fruits of the forest, and it was wonderful. However, we both thought that a smaller plate would have served the dish better.

 

5th course

Cabbage confit with matured cow’s fat and sauce on fermented vegetables

Solaris, Souvignier gris, Gylden, Vejrhøj, Odsherred, 2018, Denmark

The second main course was too experimental to our taste. In our opinion, the Danish wine makers yet have to prove themselves, and this was no exception. This orange wine tasted like apricot with vinegar, and even though it became sweeter in combination with the dish, we remained unconvinced as to its qualities. This dish consisted of various types of cabbage, beautifully presented, but the main taste was overshadowed by the cow’s fat. We missed the general idea behind this one. Alas, a low point of the dinner.

  

6th course

Cheese with bread

Spätburgunder

Christian decided to step it up with some cheese and the Spätburgunder from the 4th course. He enjoyed three great cheeses from the Arla Unika series.

 

7th course

Salt baked quince with emulsion of vervain and ice cream with birch bark

Mead, Petersen and Son, Dragsholm, 2018

One thing the Danes know how to make, is mead. Our Viking tradition has been revived, and this mead is produced at the castle. It was full-bodied, yet light, like a milder version of Klein Constantia. The dessert itself was a showpiece of chemistry. Apple juice was heated and ran towards a flask filled with thyme and vervain, and this heated apple beverage was served in ceramic jars. The mild ice cream functioned as a gentle counterweight to the flavoury apple and mead.

 

Something sweet

Petit fours, crème filled hemp cake and egg-like “caviar”

Caffe latte (or coffee/tea after your inclination)

To finish the evening, we got two petit fours, both very tasty.

 

To conclude

Slotskøkkenet deserve their Michelin star. It was our second visit there; the first time being New Year’s Eve 2017, where we were impressed by the high standards of the kitchen even on a busy night with more than 100 guests dining at the same time.

Claus Henriksen is renowned for using the produce around the castle and in Lammefjorden, and the menu varies from day to day. He is experimental, and even though the two main courses didn’t live up to our expectations, we acknowledge that he wants to try something different.
The kitchen managed a high level of technique, and we must emphasize that everything was cooked to perfection, even all the difficult types fish.
The staff was friendly and welcoming, and we had a great evening. The highlights were the first and the seventh courses, and we became inspired to try creating something similar ourselves, which is the purpose of our culinary travels.