We first visited Gastromé in 2015, when the then 1 year old restaurant was situated in central Aarhus; and one of the courses was pork with a broth, with which we to this day still compare any other broth. Nothing has ever lived up to that one! Back then the restaurant had a feeling of gastro pub with a kind and relaxed atmosphere, already then deserving their Michelin star.

Last year the restaurant moved to one of Aarhus’ suburbs and into a large villa with a garden, where they could grow their own produce, and naturally we were curious as to whether they had managed to uphold their former standards. Fear not, my friend. All was well!

1^st -6^th course – Amouse bouches

Croustade with chanterelle mushrooms and shallots

Roe (“Danish caviar”) with Indian puri and lemon

Malt bread with aubergine, Karl Johan-mushrooms, and nettles

Crumpet with quail egg and truffle

Small bread stones with chicken liver, raspberry, or coffee crumble

Coal taco with mackerel and green strawberries

Champagne, Fernand Lemaire

We had chosen the Signature dinner with experimental wines, and the first part of it was served in the lounge, where all guests were seated in comfortable sofas in small groups, and from the beginning the staff appeared professional and friendly. They took great care in presenting both wine and food. The amouse bouches were served in groups of three, with recommendations for the order of eating them.

The champagne had notes of raspberries and suited the different amouse-bouches well, and the delicate flavours came perfectly through in all of them. Between the first three, our favourite was the croustade; between the last, it was respectively the crumpet and the coal taco.

All amouse bouches had delicate flavours. The coffee crumble reminded us of a Danish coffee cake with chocolate; it only needed a small sprinkle of coconut to make the childhood illusion complete. All was inventive and promising.

7^th course

Mullet with hip rose, gooseberries, chervil, caviar, and spruce

Rose de Diel, Nahe, Pinot Noir Diel, 2022, France

There were two wine menus as well as a non-alcoholic option, and we picked the most experimental one. We rarely drink rosé wine ourselves, and we were a bit apprehensive, but it was a perfect choice. After being combined with the mullet, it changed character and tasted more like white wine. It contrasted the soft notes of the mullet well. The mullet tasted like a low-fat mackerel, and the chef understood how to let the soft nuances of the caviar stand out between the spruce and gooseberries.

8^th course

Smoked tuna under slices of silk tofu with horse beans and tomato consommé

Winzerhof Stahl, Sauvignon, 2022, Germany

At this point we were presented with bread; it was perfect timing. Sometimes you get the bread early on with the risk overindulging, but now we had laid a foundation, and we managed to control ourselves. The bread was focaccia baked with mashed potatoes; with creme cheese and herbs instead of butter, and it was light and fresh.

The tuna was extremely delicious. We would never have thought that the combination with horse beans and tomato worked, but of course it did. The consommé almost tasted like rye bread, with lingering notes of tomato, which were underlined with the tomato notes of the wine.

9^th course

Beurre blanc with trout roe with chives, shallots, and fava beans; served with brioche

Vinho Verde, Alvarinho, Quinta du Regueiro, 2022, Portugal

With a white wine almost like a powerful Riesling, the notes of peach and elderflower suited the trout roe perfectly. The beurre blanc was one of the best dishes of the evening. It was accompanied by a small brioche bread, which the waiter recommended instead of the table bread, and he encouraged us to dip the bread into the bowl. The fava beans had the function of potatoes, and the combination between them and the trout roe was divine. The wine lifted the dish to a higher level and drew out some of the fatness of the beurre blanc, so you got both the fat structure and the light intentions of this dish.

10^th course

Celeriac with Gammel Knas cheese and Lovage

Côte du Jura, La Vouivre, Domaine Carlines, 2019, France

The wine had notes of apple and ripe grapes, and it suited the celeriac and cheese perfectly. The cheese was made into a light soup; the celeriac was cut and caramelized to look like a croissant. The chef certainly understands how to cheat the senses and surprise you.

11^th course

Caviar Signature 2023 with hazelnut

Bonnet-Ponson, Perpetuelle, Champagne, 2016, France

This is Gastromé’s signature dish and according to the waiter a favourite among the guests. We understand why. The caviar is not supposed to play the leading part of the dish; instead the hazelnuts stand out and have a role of their own; both as hazelnut foam and sauteed hazelnuts.

Normally you can serve any champagne as a stand-alone, but not this one. It is powerful and needs something edible to play up against. There are hints of apple, and when you taste it, there is a hint of rankness. That changed with the combination of food; the champagne became softer; however maybe still too strong for this type of food. We think it needed a spicier and more substantial dish. This was one of the few times where we disagreed a bit with the restaurant’s selection of wine.

12^th course

Monkfish with garlic and horn of plenty

Bierzo, En-el Camino, Michellini Muffato, 2019, Spain

The wine was dry, heavy, and acidic, and it reminded us of a heavy Malbec. It definitely contrasted the monkfish. This dish was the one we left behind. We were reaching our maximum, and with one main course and five desserts to go, we only ate a little before leaving the remains. This dish was a bit anonymous; the wine was more interesting than the food. Monkfish rarely adds anything to the menu; we had it at Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester in London in 2018, too, and it was the same experience with a heavy and tough consistence without much flavour.

 

13^th course

Pork with corn sauce, smoked goat’s heart, grilled baby corn, and blackberries

Reva, Dolcetto d’Alba, Bardo, 2020, Italy

The rich wine was perfect for the pork, and everything was finely executed. We are not huge fans of fat brims, so we left them out, but the rest was flavourful and delicious. The chef knows how to compose a main course, and with only the desserts left, we were convinced that the entire experience absolutely was its one Michelin star worthy.

 

14^th course

Melon with verbena and elderflower

Pachea, Porto Lagrima, no year, Portugal

The white port suited this first dessert perfectly. It had hints of elderflower, and it started out as a bit acidic but changed to sweetness combined with the fresh dessert with strong flavours of lime and elderflower. After the dessert, the wine changed again and became spry and acidic like a good cocktail. This dessert was a wonderful change of mood after the pork dish; we needed something fresh after the dark savoury pork.

15^th-19^th course

Canelé with whisky and vanilla

Yoghurt ice-cream with Darjeeling tea and yuzu

Cone with honey and pollen

Choux with strawberries and Chantilly

French toast with white chocolate and blackcurrant

The last desserts were served as a combination of petit fours. There was no wine for this one, but we were offered coffee or tea instead. Honestly, we couldn’t have managed more wine, so we enjoyed the last bits of happiness. The restaurant keeps their own bees in the garden, and they tend to use their own produce as much as possible.

To conclude

Overall, the menu was well composed and thought-through. The wine pairings were surprising and challenging as promised, without overthinking it.

The staff was attentive and informative, and we felt like welcomed guests. Our main waiter, Alexander, stood positively out. He told us that he was also a chef, and his memory was impeccable. When we told him about the consommé from our visit in 2015, he could remember which dish it belonged to, and which wine or beer (they changed the beverage from wine to beer during the time they had this dish on the menu) it was served with.

A few times a chef presented a course, and everything was done with an ease and joy about the food that spread to the guests. The transition from gastro pub with ambitions to a well-established villa restaurant certainly succeeded.

This visit is an excellent example of how the staff can turn a wobbly start into a good experience. Being situated at Sofitel St James in London, the restaurant has to balance between tourists dropping by for a casual meal and guests expecting high-end gastronomy like us.

The chef Anthony Demetre has a history of several successful Michelin-star restaurants in London, one of them being Arbutus which we visited for a lunch a few years back. Then, we talked about returning for a proper dinner but never made it before Arbutus closed, and Anthony Demetre moved on to new enterprises.

The evening began with the casual friendliness with which you would greet any hotel guest, and we felt a bit bemused when the waiter told us that they only did wine pairings Friday and Saturday. It was Thursday. We asked why we couldn’t just get the wine that they would serve on wine pairing days and explained that we felt it was ä big part of the dining experience. Then the manager arrived, listened, and obliged us. From that moment they became much more attentive, and it turned into a wonderful evening.

Amouse bouches

Fried cod and goat cheese

WestWell Estate, Pelegrim

We chose a three course dinner, and it turned out that they didn’t serve any amouse bouches before the starters, unless you ordered it. Most Michelin restaurants indulge their guests with those small surprises setting the tone for the evening, but fair enough. Anyway, we ordered some snacks, which was a lovely fried cod with goat cheese. With this, we wanted a sparkling wine, this time from Kent, England. It is a mix between Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. It was mild but lacked bubbles – but don’t hesitate to try it for yourself.

At this point, everything seemed a bit unstructured. The waiter had difficulty communicating in English (this is London), but after communication with the manager, everything cleared up.

1^st course

Salsify cooked in salted butter, Vacherin Mont d’Or, conference pear, thyme and heather chapelure

Ca’ Momi, Chardonnay, 2019,  Napa Valley, USA

The Chardonnay provided an excellent acidic foundation for the fabulous Mont d’Or with pear. The wine cannot stand alone but need a contrast to play up against like here, and the combination worked perfectly. The course lacked a hint of salt but that was soon rectified. The crunchiness was provided with the heather chapelure, which was a good idea instead of providing the usual bread.

2^nd course
French Loire rabbit – roast saddle, shoulder cottage pie, Jerusalem artichoke, Swiss chard
Reva, Barbera d’Alba, 2019, Piedmont, Italy

The well-considered wine pairings continued with this course. The wine had a wonderful contrast, it was mild and spicy and became more acidic when combined with the rabbit. The rabbit as a cottage pie was just excellent. It was perfectly prepared, and it was comfort food on a higher level. Just flawless.

3^rd course

Wild honey ice cream, Bermondsey raw honeycomb, warm honey and lemon Madeleine
Campana di la Turnelle Muscadello, 2018, Italy

We could have eaten this dessert over and over again. The honey is from the rooftop of the hotel, and the clever use of honeycombs, warm honey and honey ice cream was excellent. The lemon Madeleines were among the best we have ever tasted – in structure and taste a mix of brioche and Danish traditional pancake puffs (æbleskiver). No wonder, this is Anthony Demetre’s signature dish.

The Muscadello was another excellent example of good wine pairing; the sweet wine became a bit acidic and fresher when combined with the sweet dessert.

4^th course

Chocolate
Blackcurrant jelly
Caramelized bread
Italian Amaretto-cake with marzipan

The non-ordered but most welcome finale was a mix of chocolate, jelly, and a light and fluffy cake. It was a perfect ending.

To conclude

As a pleasant surprise, the chef came out to greet us, and we really appreciated the turn of the evening. Anthony Demetre definitely holds his own, and Wild Honey absolutely deserves its Michelin star.

The course of the evening is a perfect example of how the staff with very few adjustments (i.e. offering wine pairing when asked) and more engaging conversation can turn a meal into a complete experience. This is what all restaurants with ambitions should endeavour towards.

The dessert excelled in honey, and should we wish for more was it a bit more focus on honey and its opportunities in more parts of the menu, for instance to serve mead, bread with honey, honey caramelized protein, etc. However, that is just ideas, and for now, Wild Honey is absolutely worth visiting.

After visiting Syttende in 2019, before it received its first Michelin star, we predicted that it would rise to the occasion and even was a contender for two stars with its concept of ambition, fun, and local produce. Tables for two are in short demand, and it has been difficult to get a booking. When we finally succeeded, we were excited to revisit. The bigger the disappointment when we realized that the restaurant had left out fun from its original concept.

The concept is what it is: Situated on the 17^th floor of Alsik in Sønderborg, the name Syttende came naturally, and therefore you get 17 courses. Maybe it would help if they didn’t adamantly cling on to that policy. We went from excitement to disappointment.

1^st course – Elevator snack

Scallions and mustard

Access only by invitation, you might say. When you book a table at Syttende, you have to report to the hotel reception, from where you are picked up by a waiter, who escorts you to the lifts, where you get an amouse bouche while you ascend. Fun gimmick, however, often interrupted by stops at other floors, where the waiter discretely tries to fend off other hotel guests. Therefore, it loses its wow factor. The scallions and mustard were presented as a small, crisp pie, and it tasted surprisingly sweet.

The waiter asked if it was our first visit, and we replied. After that, every single employee visible in the restaurant (apart from the chef and other kitchen staff) approached our table with a smile and a “Welcome back”. It seemed rather pretentious, especially when we kept being introduced to new staff members two hours into the evening. We had visited ONCE three years ago, we were not regulars.

 2^nd course

Celeriac and roe
Éric Taillet, Sur Le Grand (for 2nd to 7th course)

We were presented with a selection of champagnes, and we picked “the chef’s choice”. It was delicate and light, with a hint of apple and elderflower. It was made of 90 % Meunier, and it fitted the first six courses consisting of a variation of snacks perfectly.

The celeriac was presented several ways: as a roll, in a consommé, and as a mousse. The roe floated in the consommé, and it was a fresh and delicious starter.

This was presented in a bowl with the waiters pouring the liquid, and this turned out to be the unvoluntary theme of the evening: Floating islands of food in deep plates or bowls with some sort of sauce or liquid surrounding it.

The presentation was flawless, all be it very automatic and school play-like with no hint of personality behind the professionalism of the waiters. We had already told them that this was our hobby, but nothing came back. Nobody asked how it tasted, what we thought about it, etc., and when we tried to interact with the waiters, there already was a professional deflectiveness, which made it very impersonal. From the beginning, it was clear that we were paying customers, not guests.

3^rd course

Fat sour milk (ymer) and horseradish

Presented as a mousse with small leaves of meadow sorrel. The combination of horseradish infused into the sour milk worked as it should, and gradually you got the hint of the strong horseradish combined with the meadow sorrel.

From the beginning, all the presentations were spiced up with pseudo name dropping. Proud of their local produce, as much as possible derives from local farms, dairies, etc., but it soon just sounded ridiculous, because they didn’t add anything to the name: “This is from the locals John and Janice nearby.” Honestly, when they don’t tell you why they picked John and Janice’s produce, you stop caring after also hearing about Jack, Hans, Jens, Søren, etc. without any further explanation. Why are their produce special compared to others? Especially when you don’t know the local area and the special features of geology influencing the produce remain a secret kept away from you.

4^th course

Leaf beet and eel (without eel)

We had asked them to leave the eel, since we both dislike it, and it has rarely been successfully prepared. The dish was presented with habanero oil in cream from Arla Unika, topped with caviar. Floating island no. 2, and again the waiters would pour the liquid separately. So far, everything was fine, and the habanero oil strengthened the fatness of the cream and gave it a hint of spice and freshness.

5^th course

Shiitake and pepper

Presented as a mouthful of pie made on malt flour topped with shiitake mushroom mousse with strong notes of pepper. A good highlight of umami, and well-balanced amount of saltiness. The shiitake gave a hint of shellfish, which they should do, and still, the champagne suited all dishes perfectly.

6^th course

Cauliflower and butter

Grilled cauliflower in a lake of vinaigrette with browned butter. The vinaigrette was too strong and overshadowed the browned butter with strong notes of vinegar.

 

7^th course

Jerusalem artichoke and finger lime

The Australian finger lime was one of the few ingredients that was not presented with a “This if from Henrik and Tine’s farm”. The hint of citrus worked well with the Jerusalem artichoke three ways: The grilled shell, the mousse made from the Jerusalem artichoke meat, and a swirl hardened from the mousse. However, you got almost the same effect as we had had with the 5^th course with the shiitake, and at this point we started wondering whether they were unable to vary the presentation of something firm presented in a sea of liquid. The taste was excellent. Still nothing but polite disinterested replies on our attempt to interact with the staff – and it was not a busy night.

8^th course

Kohl-rabi and trout roe

Luis A. Rodriguez Vazquez, Viña de Martin ‘Escolma’ Blanco, 2017, Galicia, Spain

The first proper starter reintroduced the floating islands; in the middle the kohl-rabi surrounded by trout roe, over which the waiter poured a kefir sauce. The mix between sweet and sour was perfect.

The wine was a mix of four Spanish grapes. It had notes of sourdough and petroleum with a sweet finish of burned brioche. It smelled dark but tasted light. It suited the kohl-rabi and the fat sauce. Still, nobody had asked whether everything was fine. The staff was professional without engagement.

9^th course

Zucchini and hazelnut

Kabinett Felseneck, Schäfer-Fröhlich, Riesling, 2021, Nahe, Germany

The zucchini was a replacement for scallops, and it worked. Again, a deep bowl with a firm base and something liquid around it. The Riesling had notes of petroleum and apple and suited the course.

10^th course

Potatoes and palm cabbage

Johannes Hirsch, Grüner Veltliner, Grub, 2019, Kamptal, Austria

Another floating island. The potatoes were scooped, however, a bit overdone, thus giving them a sad texture like granny’s overdone potatoes at a family Sunday roast. Now, we began to think that the floating island concept in deep plates had become too repetitive, and we wondered where the ambitions and the innovative presentations from our visit in 2019 had disappeared to. The chefs played it too safe.

With notes of white pepper, the wine opposed the potato and the cabbage as it should.

11^th course

Bread and cremeaux

Jacky Blot, Brut Triple Zero, Chenin Blanc, NV, Loire, France

So far, the bread had been absent from the menu. The waiter presented it as the 11^th course, with cottage cheese, cremeux made with egg, and oil with dill. The bread was supposedly based on beer, however, there was no particular smell or taste to the dark bread. We had each our favourites, one preferred the dill oil, the other cottage cheese, while the egg crème based on a traditional local dish called Sun Egg (solæg) had a slight note of egg without the spiciness in the traditional dish.

The sourdough was from a base from 1946, and they came in with a small box of the base. It was supposed to enhance the experience, but they removed it quickly. The taste of beer in the bread was totally absent, and the bread was uninteresting.

The wine was fine, but when you present beer-based bread, it would have been more suitable with a glass of local mead or beer.

12^th course

Portobello and thyme
Hirsch Vineyards, Bohain Dillon, Pinot Noir 2020, Sonoma Coast, USA

A portobello mushroom was divided into six slices, and again, surrounded by liquid, this time a bouillon with thyme. Apart from being a mushroom with thyme, this course didn’t do anything extraordinary to our senses. Besides, at this point, we had already had shiitake and Jerusalem artichoke, which presented the umami experience much better than the portobello did.

The Pinot Noir only had a faint hint of its main grape. Notes of raspberries and wild berries and a vague liquorice did not suit the earthy mushroom, actually, it clashed and the wine became bitter.

Another theme of presentation was small boxes with ingredients which should complement the dish, for instance a lemon when you got something with citrus or lime. However, the boxes were removed less than two minutes after they were delivered, so if you were supposed to ensnare all senses, they failed. Presumably, the boxes were removed in order to be presented to other guests – recycling and all that. If they should have had the full effect, they should be left for the entire course.

13^th course

Pumpkin and pheasant

Thibault Liger-Belair, Gamay, Champ de Cour, Moulin a Vent, 2019, Bourgogne, France

Now we entered the main courses. The butternut squash was fat and tasteless, and it was just an accessory to the pheasant; it didn’t really complement the protein. Somehow, this course seemed more of an idea than an integrated concept.

The wine was fine, more acidic than a Pinot Noir, but none of the red wines varied from each other. The chefs seem to have a predisposition for the easy-going wines, and none of them challenged the guest out of his comfort zone.

14^th course

Chateaubriand and berries

Pio Cesare, Nebbialo, Barolo, 2018, Piemonte, Italy

What a shame. You get a perfectly prepared piece of chateaubriand (presented in a bowl surrounded by a sea of liquid, of course), and then you ruin it with a thick layer of pickled horseradish topped with another thick layer of black truffle. The course is further demolished with sour lingonberries in a sauce. Had they chosen either the horseradish or the black truffle, you would have had a perfect dish, but now you got a Kinder egg of conflicting tastes. The horseradish and truffle clashed in a way that left it almost uneatable, and the Barolo turned sour when combined with the food. Besides, it was almost impossible to eat, because it was presented in a deep bowl, and you were then supposed to fence your knife and fork into the deep in order to catch something. The worst dish we have had in a long time. This includes our own kitchen disasters.

15^th course

Apple and Moscato

Groebe, Riesling, Aulerde, Auslese GK, 1998, Rheinhessen, Germany (for 15th and 16th course)

The Riesling ran a low 7 % of alcohol. It smelled wonderfully, but tasted like a sweet soft drink, doing no harm at this point of the evening.

The first dessert was a fresh apple sorbet in an apple soup (surprise – something liquid in a bowl) with pepper. The wine tasted weaker and got notes of peppermint, and it worked well.

16^th course

Kefir and beer porridge

Beer porridge is a traditional Danish dish, and it should be rough, smelling of beer and rye bread. Some would serve it with whipped cream or milk (not skimmed milk, which is water lying about being milk), and it has been a part of the Danish farm workers’ diet for centuries. However, this had nothing to do with beer porridge. It was a firm liquid of salt caramel with a hint of rye, so revolting that it became an insult to both beer porridge and salt caramel. The kefir was a replacement for the whipped cream, but we never appreciated it. We drank the wine to remove the hideous taste of the last dessert.

17^th course

The sweet goodbye

The last course could be served with coffee in the nearby sofa settings, but after the growing disappointment of various floating islands, meaningless local name droppings, and lack of interaction from the staff apart from the “Hello, and welcome back!”, we chose to remain seated and just get it over with. We got 10 different chocolates in a tower of plates, and some were better than others.

To conclude

As mentioned, each course was presented mechanically with mentioning of the people who had provided the produce but without a context, geological information about special circumstances about the land, the sun, etc. It gives just as much sense to say that the potatoes come from James and Joanna as you would like to know that they were peeled by the youngest chef, Brian.

The timing was flawless, but the presentation lacked imagination. 11 out of 17 dishes were presented as floating islands in round bowls, and soon there was no wow factor.

No personal interaction, no variation, and no response but polite disinterest when we tried to communicate about the food. At no point during the evening, we were asked about what we thought about the dishes, if everything was fine, or other things that might give them valuable feedback. At best, it is knowing that they do a good job. At worst, as it was, it is arrogant.

In the end we were presented with the menu and the wine menu. However, even though they assured us that they had, they had not changed the menu according to what we got instead of the shellfish, which is always a no-go due to allergies. Then we really don’t care that the chefs had signed the menu, that we also got a small bag of candy, a small glass of honey, and a small hardback book about the philosophy of the restaurant. Apparently, that philosophy excludes caring for your guests.

It was a dining situation, not a dining experience. This should have been the highlight of Danish Michelin restaurants. One star, yes, some have more, but just a few years ago, Syttende was a shooting star on the Danish culinary firmament. Now, they seem to have lost it. Yes, it is one star worth, but it is not worth a visit. Simply not value for money unless you count pretentiousness as a value.

When you go to a regular fine dining restaurant the day before, and it is way better than the Michelin-restaurant, which was supposed to be the highlight of your journey, something is amiss. Therefore, a huge shout-out to Fakkelgården in Kollund, Denmark, which is absolutely worth a visit and a stay. Now to the serious part of the actual business: Reviewing 1-star restaurant Wullenwever in the charming town of Lübeck in Germany.

The weather was splendid, and all the guests were seated outside in the cosy backyard with flower arrangements and statues. Our reservation was for 6:30 p.m., and apparently so was everybody else’s. Almost all guests arrived at the same time, and we wondered how they would manage. The answer: Do not engage with the guests.

Unfortunately, we were unaware of having to order the full seven course dinner at least one day in advance, so we had to make do with choosing four courses (cheese being one of them) from the six courses on the menu. We asked for complimentary wine after their choosing.

 

Bread etc.

Breadbasket with butter, tomato paste, cream cheese, and olive oil

Taittinger Champagne

Nice bread, but no presentation. Already at this point we observed the casualness. The waiters were smiling, but there was no hint of personal delivery to the wine or the bread. No presentation of types of bread or butter, and no asking as to why we came, whether it was a special occasion, or any other kind of small talk.

 

1^st course

Oka of swordfish with lime, coconut

Fritz Haag, 2021, Riesling, Germany

Neither the wine nor the swordfish was presented with anything but what the menu or the wine label said, and at no point during the evening we got any information about the produce. Were they locally produced? Were they processed in a specific way? And why did the chef/sommelier recommend this specific wine?

The other starter on the menu contained shellfish, so we took the swordfish. When asked, the waiters could not explain what “oka” meant. We looked it up afterwards, and apparently it is a Samoan way of serving swordfish.

Served in copperplated glasses covered in black, it all looked delicious. The fish was cut into tiny cubes, thus creating a meaty substance without revealing the original structure.

Thin coconut slices, edible flowers, and a hint of coriander left you with clear, distinctive flavours – however a bit one-dimensional. A bit of chilli or turmeric would have added to the experience.

The wine was mild and crisp, without much acidity and a hint of petroleum. It suited the fish very well, and we would happily order 12 bottles for ourselves.

2^nd course

Venison with elderflower, green beans, carrot, celery, broccoli, mushrooms, and cherry

Domaine St Antoine, Fascination, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2016, France

Again a serving without any other presentation than naming the ingredients already visible. Here, we got the explanation as to how it was possible to serve 10 tables at the same time.

The plating was underwhelming; no finesse, just ingredients slammed up in a pile. It tasted fine, but nothing more than what you would expect from a homecooked dinner. The cherries were flavourless without the full taste of summer and cherry you can expect in August. The mix of celeriac and celery leaf worked, but the green beans were unnecessary, and in general this course lacked heart. It was far from Michelin star level.

The Cabernet Sauvignon had notes of forest berries and cherries, tobacco, and the correct hint of Brettanomyces. It was fine and would have been spot on if the flavours of the course had been more distinct. On a positive note, the waiters were generous with the wine. They often came back and offered more.

 

3^rd course

Variety of cheeses

Montbriac, Taylor’s Late , 2017, Vintage Port, Portugal

The cheese trolley hosted a variety of 15-20 different cheeses, most of them with small name tags. Thank you for that, because it was just left before us for a few minutes, while the waiter served other guests, and upon returning we were just asked what we would like. We were recommended one cheese, though, but still we felt left behind. The accompanying bread and chutney were delicious, again without further presentation.

 

4^th course

Globes of various ice creams

Mosel Neumagener, Laudamusberg Auslese, 2019, Riesling, Germany

The wine had notes of petroleum and honey, and this semidry wine suited the dessert. However – it would have been nice to know what we got. The beautiful plate with various types of ice cream in soft and hard-shelled globed deserved more than just being put before you.

 

To conclude

Ironically, execution has two meanings, and both fit this restaurant. The name Wullenwever refers to the mayor of Lübeck, Jürgen Wullenwever (c. 1492-1537), who was executed, and the execution of the four courses was not worth a Michelin star.

Once again, we were confirmed in our suspicion that the Danish Michelin-stars are much harder to achieve than the German stars. Vau and Fischers Fritz in Berlin were respectively disastrous and underwhelming; Wullenwever was no better than an ordinary evening with friends – and then: Friends would show interest in your wellbeing and be proud of their culinary efforts.

As we mentioned in the beginning, there are other restaurants worth travelling for, even if they do not hold a Michelin star. The cosy backyard, generous wine, and smiling, yet uninterested waiters, is not.

Some evenings live in your memory forever. Such an evening was dining at The Ritz. We love it when a restaurant lives up to expectations and the staff goes to large lengths to give their guests a wonderful time, and they did.

On their website are rules for dress code in most areas, including the bars and restaurants. Jeans, t-shirts, and sneakers are frowned upon, and the people wearing them are either prohibited from entering or provided with more suitable clothing. We love that. It is simple, really: When a hotel and restaurant have high standards, and the staff is expected to provide the uppermost services, at least you can honour their efforts with a minimum of class. Otherwise, it becomes a freak show where the staff is on display for their fanciness for hobos in tracksuits.

So, dressed appropriately, we were ready for the seven-course tasting menu with complimentary wines.

 

Amuse bouche

Liver pâté and goat cheese
Bread
Blancs de Blancs champagne

We ordered the house champagne, and it was excellent with the flavourful amuse bouches, a canape with liver pâté and cherries, and a goat cheese with basil. It was easy to distinguish the ingredients, and everything had a purpose. Besides, we got a delicious sour dough bread.

 

1^st course

Tomato and Basil
Marco de Bartoli, Marsala Vigna la Miccia 2016, Sicily, Italy

Green tomatoes, a clear tomato and basil gel with fresh flavours was a perfect starter. Served on a small bread pillow with salt, it both looked and tasted amazing.

For this, the marsala wine was a brave choice. You should think that the dark, caramel-like wine would clash with the acidity of the vegetables, but it truly complimented them.

 

2^nd course

Tartlet of Duck Liver with cherry and pistachio
Château St Michelle & Dr Loosen, Eroica, Riesling 2019, USA

Nobody is allowed to say foie gras anymore. However, we love it, and we eat it. Naturally, you can produce it in a more animal friendly way, these days, and The Ritz is one of the restaurants which does so. It was a wonderful dish, rich and sweet, and the warmth of the cherries supplemented the liver, while the crunchy pistachio added bite to the dish and the wonderful brioche accompanying it. Here, it made sense with a top of gold flake – if not for the taste, then for the sight of it.

A less brave sommelier would have switched the wine and the food between the first two courses, using this Riesling for the tomato, and the Marsala for the foie gras. Luckily, our Italian sommelier took chances, and the Riesling was perfect for this dish. It was sweet and acidy with a hint of petroleum, and it added a fine resistance to the fat liver pâté.

 

3^rd course

Dover Sole Veronique
Yves Cuilleron, La Petite Côte, Condrieu, Rhône 2019, France

This was sea meats forest and wine fields. You rarely get mushrooms with fish, somehow the two elements seem incompatible. The sole was made as a ballotine – a brave choice – with sliced mushrooms and shelled and halved green grapes on top. It was genuinely surprising, and this complexity worked perfectly.

The white wine was peachy with a hint of yoghurt and acid. On its own, you have to wait for the flavour, but with Dover sole and mushrooms, it opens and adds freshness.

 

4^th course

Veal Sweetbread with parmesan and truffle
David Duband, Bourgogne, 2018, France

For the sweetbread we got two sauces: one with parmesan, one with truffle. Not mixed together but working together enhancing the consistency and flavour of the sweetbread. Three salt flakes were all you needed to complete it – but when that is your only complaint on such an occasion, there really is nothing to put a finger on.

The wine was perfect for the sweetbread, it gave a distinctive and clear counterreaction to the meat.

 

5^th course

Anjou Pigeon
Masi, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Costasera, Veneto 2016, Italy

This was a showstopper. The table next to us had already had their pigeon, and we revelled in the magnificent duck press (or rather, pigeon press) being brought to the table. The waiter cut the pigeon breast for the plate, and the rest was put into the press, using the juices for a flambéed sauce with cognac.

The pigeon was accompanied by white asparagus, poivre verte and potato crisps. It was a fabulous dish, simply stunningly executed. The red wine was deep and flavourful and complemented everything beautifully.

 

6^th course

Tunworth, pear and truffle
Villa Mattielli, Rocioto di Soave, Ambra, Veneto 2015, Italy

This was cheese, pear, truffle, and the famous rooftop honey from The Ritz – with a sealed (of course) envelope containing the history of the bee farm.

The wine complemented the dish, which again was meticulously executed. There had been no mishaps the entire evening.

 

7^th-8^th course

Wild strawberry and white chocolate
Salted peanut with praline and milk ice cream
Villa Mattielli, Rocioto di Soave, Ambra, Veneto 2015, Italy

This dessert truly celebrated strawberry ice cream. Not the industrial ones from your childhood, but the succulent, sweet, rich strawberry from a summer’s day. The tuille added crunch, and the chocolate ganache had its own part to play without overpowering the sorbet.

The salted peanut and caramel were sweet and flavourful – again, we felt pampered with taste explosions.

The wine was an encore, which also worked perfectly with the two sweet desserts. Now, the wine turned a bit acid, which suited it. The sommelier knows his wines, and he was attentive and inventive in his descriptions.

 

To conclude

The tasting menu is called The Epicurean Journey, referring to spoiling and challenging the senses, and we got what we came for. The overwhelmingly beautiful room added to the experience, and we will definitely be back.

It became obvious during the evening that some guests are there to enjoy their own company, while we were there to enjoy the atmosphere, the food, the people, and the whole experience. Even though we were putting on The Ritz, the staff embraced us with marvellous flavours, an exquisite cuisine, and their attentive knowledge – if we let them, and we did. They took care in not imposing on those guests who were there to spend time alone, and they were aware of those who wanted to dive into everything.

This restaurant is easily on the top three of all the restaurants we have ever been to. As to attentiveness, the waiters had heard us talking about passing 40 restaurant visits on a Michelin level, and for a last surprise they brought us a delicious raspberry cake to bring home. This is not our last time at The Ritz. We will be back. Properly dressed, of course.

 

Hide is split into three sections: The evening restaurant (Above), the lunch restaurant (Ground) and the bar (Below). This time, we selected the lunch restaurant, but we will definitely come back for the evening experience another time.

Being placed on Piccadilly, a lot of tourists drop in. Our visit was pre-booked, and we entered into a welcoming, relaxed atmosphere of busy city-dwellers, foodies, and casual passers-by. It never became too casual, and the few children who were brought along were surprisingly well-behaved. Take note: This is not a family restaurant. Their parents just knew how to handle them.

Since it was lunch, we only had three courses with complimentary wine, which we let the Italian sommelier pick out for us.

 

Bread etc.

Green olives and breadbasket
Bruno Paillard Champagne

We know. The breadbasket and olives are not part of ordinary reviews, but it was just delicious. Salted butter and five different kinds of bread from huge crisps to sour dough and brioche – everything baked with delicate flavours. The olives were some of the bests which we have tasted. They were flavourful and crunchy – Italy just entered our mouths.

The mild champagne was excellent for a soft start on a three-course lunch.

 

1^st course

Escabeche of Cornish mackerel with carrot, saffron and tarragon
Marjan Simčič, Jordano Cru 2016, Sauvignon Blanc, Italy

This is the best mackerel I have ever had; my husband is not that fond of fish but was persuaded to try it. This was a cold dish with a perfectly fried mackerel. The carrot jus was fresh and functioned as a cold gazpacho – add eatable flowers, rucola, capers, baby carrots, onion, and chives – and you have a delicate starter with much flavour.

The wine brought memories of summer at sea. This wine house lies near the Croatian border, and they had produced a salty mineral wine without particular sweetness but perfect for the fat mackerel. It was a great contrasting wine.

 

2^nd course

Barbecued fillet of Herdwick lamb, escalivada and toasted pine nuts
Pian delle Vigne, Antinori, Brunello di Montalcino 2015, Italy

A wonderful main course – again, perfectly executed with lamb, citrus, and a remote hint of tarragon. One of the most beautiful and well-cooked lambs for a long time. The aubergine was a huge hit – and it was brilliant to serve red pepper on a base of yoghurt. The aubergine did everything, and you did not miss the traditional potatoes. The additional pine nuts in the sauce were a brilliant idea.

For each dish, the sommelier arrived with two wines to choose from. It was an excellent service, since not everyone has the same preferences. The alternative wine for this course was from Cahors; a region we know well, but we let the sommelier pick; told him that we were up for surprises, and he certainly fulfilled his job.

The chosen wine had deep, round flavours of earth grown blackberries and forest berries. The tannins were rich without being overpowering, and the wine complemented the lamb beautifully.

 

3^rd course

Hazelnut ice cream with Tahitian vanilla Chantilly and chocolate cremeux
Ben Ryé, Passito di Pantelleria, Donnafugata 2020, Sicily, Italy

For this, we were given a wooden spoon – not just as a gimmick, but the wood truly added something to the hazelnut ice cream, which was placed on Chantilly crème with hazelnut oil on top of a biscuit with dark chocolate. The hazelnut shone through, and it corresponded beautifully with the wine. 

The dessert wine smelled of apricots, it had hints of perfume, was very aromatic and reminded of Eiswein. The colour was deep amber, and the taste was round and pleasant. One of the best dessert wines, we have had.

 

To conclude

It is always a pleasure when you glance at other tables and revel in their choices, while you wish that you had ordered their dish, too. The plate of various cold cuts and the cheese table looked delicious, and we could conclude that all the courses were plated and served with care.

Even though this was simply a lunch, we felt well provided for, and the waiters were smiling and engaging. We got more than expected, and that is truly all you need.

We sat near the huge, Tolkien-inspired Elven-staircase leading up to the dinner restaurant “Above”. In “Ground” we got the Modern British cuisine with trips to Italy for the wine, and we will definitely be back for more.

After many years of waiting for visiting this restaurant, partly to due covid, partly due to the strict dress code of which this restaurant prizes itself, we finally managed to dine at the first Indian restaurant, which achieved a Michelin star in London.

Actually, we were quite disappointed. There is nothing to complain about regarding the food, and the taste was exquisite, the execution spot on, and you felt at home in the Indian cuisine.

However, when it comes to the dress code which is mentioned on the website, there is no coherence as regards execution. We were both dressed up according to the rules, and actually we were quite disappointed when people showed up in jeans and sneakers and were allowed inside. Except for young one man who was dismissed at the door, and when you look at the other guests, you actually did not understand why. For once, the women were exceptionally badly dressed in worn out jeans and dirty sneakers.

We ordered the tasting menu with complimentary wine menu, and we even asked what was recommended: wine or beer – knowing that it is difficult to match the Indian cuisine with the European wine tradition.

My husband had written about his shellfish allergy beforehand, and we repeated it, underlining that I would like exactly the same menu as him to make it easier for the kitchen and to get the same experience.

The waiter accepted, and therefore it was a mystery to why I got the tiger prawn, while my husband got the alternative. We returned the dish to the kitchen, and it was clear that the waiter just had not got the message. We fail to understand why.

 

1^st course

Curry soup
Champagne

The amuse bouche was a curry soup, warm and nice, but too thin. It had apple, lentils and coriander. The apples were cut into small crusty pieces, really nice. Had they added coconut milk and a hint of salt, it would have been perfect. With this, we got the champagne of the house, not knowing exactly what it was.

None of the wines were presented with house, type of grape, vintage or history. All wines were already poured into the (small) glasses, when they arrived at the table.

 

2^nd course

Raj Kachori
Champagne 

This was the starter, which we ordered instead of the tiger prawn. As mentioned above, I for mysterious reasons got the tiger prawn, so we had to send this course back.

When the Raj Kachori arrived, however, it was delicious. This was a vegetarian dish, on the menu described as regal street food. It was a large, crusty wheat puri filled with yoghurt, ketchup, pomegranate, and spinach. Flavourful chutneys fulfilled the experience.

The complimentary wine was the same champagne as we had gotten at arrival – still unpresented and thus of unknown origin. It worked well, but we were puzzled as to the lack of presentation.

3^rd course

Smoked Chicken Tikka with garam masala and mace
Rosé wine, France 

Apart from a bit of acid the rosé wine did not do anything for this dish. Again, it was perfectly executed with a kind of pesto and coriander, and the chicken meat was well prepared.

4-7^th course

Kashimiri Rogan Josh, Patiala Lamb shank, Chicken Makhani, and Pineapply curry with turmeric rice and naan bread
Haut-Medoc, Château Lamothe-Cissac 2018, France

The four main courses were presented in small bowls on a long silver plate with a huge bowl of rice on the side. Well, to be honest, we mostly discarded the rice and concentrated on the main courses.

The pineapple was sweat and delicious, with a preserved firmness.

The naan bread was fine, maybe a bit too thin and crusty to our taste but that may be the variations within the Indian cuisine.

This was the best courses so far, and we had our own favourites. My husband preferred the Rogan Josh, I preferred the soft chicken.

We only know what kind of wine we got, because we asked about it – still wondering why they did not bother to present it. It was mild on the palate but did not really do anything for or against the food.

8^th course

Chocolate ganache with raspberries, strawberries, crushed pistachio on biscuit
Mylitta Tokay 2018, Hungary

The only weakness of the Indian cuisine is its desserts. Somehow it is always a bit off, and even though it tasted well, it was not an explosion of taste. A flake of gold on the top – to this day, we still wonder why. It does not add anything but elements of the periodic table into your body.

We only know what kind of Tokay it was because we asked, after the waiter had presented our pre-poured glasses of liquid as Tokay. If we had not seen the bottle, we would not have believed it. The wine did not have the thick, creamy flavour of raisin as other Tokays do.

To conclude

After having visited our fair share of Indian restaurants, we know what to expect, and at Veeraswamy our expectations were disappointed. We had hoped for a superb experience, with attentive staff and a culinary explosion of flavours.

Well, we did not quite get it. The lack of coordination as regards the tiger prawns was one thing. It can happen, and it was corrected. The thing is that when you order a complimentary wine menu and even ask for their recommendations, you want a presentation as well. Not pre-poured glasses of anonymous wines on a tray. It felt old-fashioned and out of touch with the Michelin star level de nos jour. Had we ordered the wine ourselves, we would have got a better combination.

The feeling of Indian hospitality and warmth never reached us. We lacked coordination, immersion, and passion. We felt like clients and customers, not as guests. We honestly fail to understand why they can keep their one Michelin star. The food was good, but everything else failed. When you visit a Michelin star restaurant, you seek out the whole experience.

This review is less detailed than usually, since we were there with friends, and we did not bring our notebook. Therefore, we give you the menu and the wine list without the usual detailed description apart from the conclusion. We cannot eat shellfish (see below), but the menu came like this.

 

Bread

Four different types of bread; among them brioche and sourdough buns

Two types of butter; one with cheese, one with thyme

 

Amuse-bouche

Caviar with crème fraiche and octopus’ disc

Millésime, Guy Michel et Fils, Pierry, Champagne, France 1998

 

1^st course

Razor clam with double crème fraiche, lemon oil and Baeril Prestige Caviar

Gewürztraminer, Jean Becker, Zellenberg, France 1986

 

2^nd course

Langoustine with Nordic seaweed and beurre blanc

Un Jour 1911, André Clouet, Bouzy, France 1997/1998

 

3^rd course

Norwegian scallop with spring greens and browned butter

Nierstein Pettenthal, Riesling Spätlese, Heyl Zu Herrnsheim, Rheinhessen, Germany 1990

 

4^th course

Goose liver parfait with caramelized onion and crisps

Maison Roche De Bellene, Beaune, France, 1996 Premier Cru

 

5^th course

Cannelloni with bisque and morel sauce

V.O.R.S. Bodegas Tradición, Jerez, Spain, 30 Year Amontillado Tradición

 

6^th course

Rabbit with carrot jus and Parmigiano Reggiano

Clos Saint Urbain Rangen De Thann, Pinot Gris, Domaine zind Humbrecht, Thann, France 2001

 

7^th course

Cheeses

Pierre de Segonzac, Pinnau des Charantes, France 1989 Héritage Familial

 

8^th course

Sweet coconut and mango pre-dessert

 

9^th course

Cocoa and citrus fruits

 

10^th course

Petit fours

 

To conclude

The Samuel was awarded a Michelin star just four months after opening, and our expectations were high. Our friends had chosen the restaurant, and beforehand they noticed the kitchen about our shellfish allergy. Summing up: Two people could eat shellfish, two could not. The restaurant excels in seafood, and with 850 metres to the sea (as well as weeks to prepare for a common allergy), we thought it would be easy for them to present alternatives.

Apparently not. For all three seafood courses the chef had simply removed the protein, not replaced them. Scallops, langoustine, and razor clam are not difficult to replace. In the nearby sea swim cod and halibut. The result was three almost similar courses with salad and a sauce. Our friends got the full experience – we all paid for the full experience. We felt a bit neglected and downcast due to the lack of consideration.

There were many positive things. Almost everything was prepared and presented flawlessly (apart from the cannelloni; it was a bit grainy, and the morels did not shine through), the flavours were fine (even though the two of us got a bit tired of salad and sauce without fish!) and the atmosphere is friendly.

The sommelier’s knowledge and enthusiasm when she presented the exquisite wines deserve praise and recognition. It is one of the best wine menus we have experienced to date.

The bread selection is definitely worth mentioning, too. The waiter arrived with a trolly with four different breads, which he delivered in small baskets, and there was no cheapness about the bread. The basket was filled several times during the evening.

The Samuel has become renowned for its special cheeses. Jonathan K. Berntsen is a member of The French cheese association, Guilde Internationale des Fromagers, and the cheeses were beautifully displayed at the entrance. When we got to the cheeses, we were led downstairs to a presentation. A minor detail, but: We were huddled together with another table. We know it is practical, but it felt less exclusive and more like class education, when you are put together with another party.

After the presentation, we were led back to the table, and a few minutes later our plates arrived. Considering the excessiveness of cheeses, it was a bit disappointing only getting a teaspoon of each cheese – for some of them, you barely got the taste of it before it had disappeared in your mouth.

So: Keep up the good work with the atmosphere, the bread, the wine, and the composition of the courses. There is room for improvement when it comes to compensating for allergies and amount of cheese.

Six years after our first visit at Henne Kirkeby Kro, the restaurant now has two Michelin stars and a reputation as one of the best Danish restaurants, which is quite an achievement being based in the most western part of Denmark without possibilities of regular public transportation or an urban population to drop by. You never pass by accident. You only go there if you want to. Henne Kirkeby Kro is absolutely worth the journey.

Since 2012, the cuisine of English-born Paul Cunningham has transformed the small local inn into a modern and charming need-to-go.

The evening menu ”Vores Henne” (Our Henne). We would describe the kitchen as a combination of New Nordic and Modern British with emphasis on local produce. They grow their own vegetables and keep a few animals, and the protein is, when possible, from local farms. There were two wine menus, Our Dinner and Our Prestige. We chose the less expensive Our Dinner.

 

1^st-3^rd course

House charcuterie, pickled chilli, tomato, and hazelnut

Smoked cod roe and salted lumpfish roe with lemon cream and crisps

Pressed rabbit, carrot, fennel, coriander seed

Pol Roger, Champagne, France, 2015

Rosé, Chateau Romassan, Domaine Ott, France, 2018

For the amouse bouches, we chose the classic champagne, which proved to be a good choice. The first snack was five slices of charcuterie: duck breast, ox rump, ham, bresaola, and fennel salami, simple and beautifully arranged with pickled tomato, chilli, and hazel nut. Each slice had a distinct, yet subtle, flavour, and the cut-outs were a delicious tribute to meat.

The second amouse bouche was an opulent and generous plate of cod roe and lumpfish roe on lemon creme fraiche with crisps as scooping tools. Even though mixed, it was easy to distinguish the cod and the lumpfish, and ”since the season for lumpfish roe is so short, we don’t want to be seem cheap about it,” as the waiter said when asked about the huge serving. With that size, we worried how we should get through the rest of the evening, but our concerns were unnecessary. For one course, they wanted the concept to be ”gluttony”, and we enjoyed every mouthful. Salty and crunchy crisps applauded the sweet and salty mix of roe.

The third amouse bouche was the highlight of the evening: Rabbit terrine with such delicate flavours that even though everything else was equally perfect, this just stood out. The meat was moist and flavourful, probably the best rabbit which we have ever had. In the middle of the 20^th century, rabbit was ”poor man’s food” in Denmark, being easy to breed and raise, but now most people connect the white, light meat with pets or oddities in the French or the Indian cuisine.

For the rabbit, they impromptu served the rosé wine, which smelled of peaches and had a clear, bitter flavour. A sweet and flavourful Riesling would – to our taste – had been a better option; for instance, the wine served for the fourth course.

Bread

Our Lilibet, our butter

Paul Cunningham always names his bread after a famous person, and this season’s sour dough bread is a tribute to HM Elizabeth II for her 70th jubilee year. It was served with a huge lump of thyme and rosemary butter, freshly made. Yes, lump! A fistful of butter on a plate – and we loved it.

4^th course

Thai chicken, Poulet Label Rouge

Ürziger Würzgarten, Alte Reben, Dr. Herman, Mosel, Germany, 2020

It is bold to serve a Thai inspired chicken with strong and spicy flavours for a starter – especially in Denmark, where most people (not us) choke on anything more than a pepper corn. The chicken was served in a coconut sauce with lime, chilli, ginger, and lemongrass. The strength of the spices swept across your tongue, combined with the juiciness and sweetness of the chicken and coconut. The chicken was a replacement for the crab, which we due to shellfish allergy could not have, and it was so elegantly done that we did not think of it as a replacement. That constitutes a good chef: That he makes his guests feel that every course is made for THEM, no matter the circumstances.

Now we had the sweet, flavourful, and fat Riesling, which we would have recommended for the third amouse bouche – well knowing that amouse bouches not require to be part of the wine menu. However, this wine was delightful for this course as well.

 

5^th course

Grilled monkfish, ramson and lemon butter

Rully, David Moret, Bourgogne, France, 2019

After the Thai-inspired chicken, we wondered how they could return to Modern British/New Nordic, but with the grilled monkfish, the chef made a gentle geographical return. The ramson and lemon butter still had a hint of Asian cuisine; it was a flawless turnaround. Gentle flavours, perfectly seasoned, of course.

The wine was dry, with a hint of bitterness and elderflower. It really complimented the monkfish.

 At this point we semi-concluded that apart from one wine pairing, which actually was not an official part of the menu, everything had been spot on. The waiters were attentive and knowledgeable. We had two: A trainee and a fully educated waiter; both smiling and present.

 

6^th course

Lamb from Varde Ådal with new onions and black garlic

Brunello di Montalcino, Querce Bettina, Toscana, Italy, 2009

The main course was local lamb, served two ways. As a small roast and as a lamb pie – with greetings to the chef’s English origins. Spring onions and black garlic complemented the protein, and it was, naturally, exquisitely executed.

The Brunello was velvety and soft, with a slight scent of petroleum, which turned into a hint of cherry on the palate. The pairing was fine, maybe a bit anonymous to the richness of the lamb, but at this point one of the waiters had presented my husband with an alternative wine, which just added the last touch.

 

7^th course

Cream panna cotta, roast rhubarb, cinnamon, pink pepper, and pistachio with ginger ice cream

3 Puttonyos Tokaji Aszú, Oremus, Tokaj, Hungary, 2016

To us, Tokaj is always a popular choice, and the dessert wine with a taste of raisin is a good match for the fat panna cotta, because the Tokaj turns a bit bitter with the sweet dessert. The execution of the dessert was excellent.

 

8^th course

Dark chocolate Marquis, vanilla, and ice wine vinegar 

Cape Tawny, Niepoort & Sadie, Swartland, South Africa, 2009

We do not know if it was intended, but to us, this dessert looked and tasted like a tribute to the Danish/German traditional ”kiksekage” (biscuit cake, a cold chocolate cake) with layers of chocolate in between biscuits. Here, the biscuits were replaced by another type of chocolate. It was perfect with the wine, and again, our senses were satisfied with well-balanced flavours.

 

9^th course

Old English cream fudge and cherry tonka jelly

Coffee

The final addition was the fudge and jelly – naturally with great flavours as a perfect end to a wonderful evening.

 

To conclude

When we first visited Henne Kirkebo Kro in 2016, they had one Michelin star, and it is obvious that they have upped their game. The second star is well deserved. This is one of the best Danish restaurants, and yes, we know the competition is fierce. Paul Cunningham and the owners of Henne Kirkeby Kro have managed to create a small haven in the most western part of Jutland, with no large population or efficient infrastructure to back it up, but with dedication, passion, and focus and local produce and flavours.

During the evening, Christian was several times served a taste of another wine, and the professionalism and presence of the waiters made you feel at home.

From our check-in in the afternoon until next morning, we felt welcome. The nature surrounding the inn may be harsh, the wind can be wild, but the environment in and around the inn makes you feel comfortable. The efforts of Paul Cunningham and his team are definitely worth both 2 stars – maybe even 3! – and require a visit.

 

 

After lockdown and restrictions, we had looked forward to this evening, where we finally reached 50 individual Michelin stars (with revisits: 70) on all levels.

We have heard much about “Ti Trin Ned” since its first Michelin star in 2017. Since then, the restaurant has moved to a new location by the harbour. The interior holds Danish design classics, it is a simple, modern look with almost all seats facing the water. Their food reflects this simplicity and is, naturally, inspired by seafood and the four seasons.

There were three possible wine menus: standard, experimental, luxury. We went for the standard menu, which was an excellent choice. It convinced us that no matter the financial range of your dinner (even though a Michelin restaurant still is high-end), the chefs and the sommeliers have put thought and care into the wine pairings.

 

1^st-3^rd course

Apple marinated in dill, salted cucumber, and pickled, white currant served with roe of pike and fat yoghurt

Crisp potato flower with caviar and smoked mayonnaise

Tomato bouillon with tagetes oil

NV, l’Avatique, Mouzon-Leroux Champagne, France, 2015

The three amouse bouches were a forecast of the simple and distinct, yet delicate flavours which are the essence of Ti Trin Ned.

The champagne was dry with a hint of apple acid, and it matched all three amouse bouches perfectly. It was a complimentary choice, enhancing the fresh flavours and underlining the ingredients.

The first amouse bouche with pike, apple, and cucumber showed us that the chefs had a clear idea about what they wanted to present. The flavours were fresh and distinct, and it boded well for the evening.

Caviar on a crisp potato flower sounds like a great idea, and we were told it was a particularly flavourful caviar. However, that deliciousness almost disappeared when eating it all in one bite. We will recommend starting with the caviar on top, and then going down through the beautiful flower of potato and mayonnaise, like a finishing “fish and chips”.

The green tomato bouillon was originally served with lobster, which had been removed due to shellfish allergy. However, we didn’t miss it. The soup was delicate, rich, and distinct. The tagetes oil added a hint of flower and contrast to the velvety bouillon without giving the dreaded smell of soap.

Before the fourth course, the bread arrived: A trio of different sorts: a dark malt bread with walnuts, a lighter bread on sourdough, and a bread on oat and wheat. There was plenty of it, and it was supplemented with a fill-up when needed. It tasted wonderfully.

 

4^th course

Kohlrabi and baby zucchini with halibut and a consommé on verbena and basil

Silvaner Alte Reben, Weingut Saalwächter, Rheingau, Germany, 2019

The first proper starter continued with the delicate and fine flavours, and it was presented in a sea of consommé making it look like a jellyfish on the seabed. To our taste, 4-5 salt flakes would have enhanced the flavour, but it was a beautifully composed dish, which definitely stood out.

The Silvaner was fresh with mineral flavours and went from an acidy aftertaste to bitterness when the food was added. It was a perfect wine pairing.

 

5^th course

Brill with fennel and coriander with butter sauce

Mâcon Milly-Lamartine – Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon Bourgogne, France, 2018

Fennel and coriander usually divide people into absolutes of pros or cons, but not today. We both love coriander, while fennel is avoided by one of us. However, the kitchen managed to give hints of both without overshadowing the brill, and we enjoyed it immensely. Again, 4-5 salt flakes could have enhanced the course – and writing that: If that is all you miss during an entire evening, it is pretty perfect.

The white Burgundy had a fresh and dry undertone, which is a bit unusual from Burgundy, but it was delightful and added character. It was probably a result of the grapes being harvested early in the season, and again, it was a perfect match to the fragile flavours of the brill.

 

6^th course

Grilled shallots with caviar on matured ox sauce and elderflower

Niedermenniger Herrenberg Riesling – Hofgut Falkenstein Mosel, Germany, 2020

The Riesling smelled of dry minerals, but transformed into a more intense, sweeter wine in your mouth. It was a pleasant surprise, and somehow managed to contrast the sweetness of the onions very well.

The onions were halved and grilled, and they kept their structure with a crunch, without going jellylike. The abundance of caviar on the top functioned as salt, and the almost consommé-inspired sauce was based on a recipe to kill for. This course was one of many that showed us that the chefs excel in mixing few, but distinct ingredients.

 

7^th course

Veal chops with pointed cabbage and sauce on chicken fond

Motor Callet – 4 Kilos Mallorca, Spain, 2019

Ahh, veal chops! Delicious! We thought that this was the main course and had barely overcome our joy, when they announced that there was another one to come. But first things first.

The easy way out for this course is a light Bordeaux, and it would have been a perfectly acceptable choice. However, this Spanish wine was a bold and good choice. The first impression was acid with a hint of strawberry and barely any aftertaste. However, when combined with the veal, the Motor Callet unfolded and got an acidic flavour which stayed on your tongue. Well done!

Need we add that the veal chops with a leaf of pointed cabbage on top were beautifully plated and tasted heavenly?

 

8^th course

Grilled deer with caramelized and grilled rhubarb, miso, and game fond

Chianti Classico – Tenuta di Carleone Toscana, Italy, 2017

After many restaurant visits, we have learned that the main course often is the Achilles’ heel of the kitchen. Not from lack of trying, but because it often ends with a combination of dark meat, potatoes, and sauce in endless variations.

However, we had now come to the main course, and what a surprise. Often, deer can seem grainy and taste of white flour. Not this time. The deer was grilled, but the middle was red, moist, and simply just beautiful to look at. It was flawless, and the taste was excellent.

The game fond added even more flavours, but the highlight of this course was, impossible as it may seem after complimenting the deer: the rhubarb. Small pieces of rhubarb added acid and sweetness, and it enhanced everything else on the plate. Actually, the rhubarb deserves its own course. It was perfect here, and it will be perfect in its own right.

The light Chianti was rich on tannins and had cherry flavours which supported and underlined the deer perfectly.

 

9^th course

Cheese: Trefold and Kronly from Arla Unika with roasted yeast and honey on a malt biscuit

Kopp Riesling Kabinett, Weingut Von Othegraven, Mosel, Germany, 2019

Cheese was not on the menu from the beginning, but the waiter asked if we wanted any and suggested sharing. So, we did, and we didn’t regret it. We have written it before: The cheese board doesn’t show the skills of the chef, only a selection of their personal taste. This time, we were wrong.

The two cheeses were combined in one dish: One on top of a malt biscuit, the other grated generously over the first one, creating a fluffy snow cone. It was easy to split in two parts, and we each enjoyed our half, where the combinations worked brilliantly together. The biscuit was the superior Godfather of the Digestives: Homemade, rich, structured, yet moist.

The Riesling had a distinct smell of petroleum and ensnared but fooled the senses. When drinking it, we got a clear, sweet peach, which again matched the cheese perfectly.

 

10^th course

Granité with garden acid on vanilla foam, with mint leaves

“They hit that one in solar plexus,” we said. This refreshening in-between before the final course was not ‘just another’ granité, but the vanilla foam added a velvety sweetness to the acid nodes of mint and tea in the granité. Often, granité can have frozen lumps, but not this one. It was extremely light. We loved it.

 

11^th course

Creamy pumpkin ice cream with apples and pumpkin

Haus Klosterberg Riesling Auslese – Markus Molitor, Mosel, Germany, 2019

Again, as we wrote during the first courses, the kitchen had maintained their light, delicate, yet distinct flavours, even when using a rich and sweet pumpkin. The ice cream was presented in a bowl surrounded by a clear soup and small dice of apple and pumpkin.

The wine had nodes of acidy Granny Smith apples and elderflower, and it supplemented the sweet, creamy pumpkin beautifully.

It was a perfect last course.

 

To conclude

Ti Trin Ned is inspired by the neighbouring sea and the Danish seasons. The chefs followed that through, during all courses, and there were no mistakes or unnecessary experiments. Not that they don’t experiment. They do – and they succeed. Their ideas are clear and consistent from the beginning to the end.

The staff is friendly, professional, and knowledgeable. There are two waiters sharing the sommelier job, and both presented the wines with many great details, and they clearly knew what they were talking about. The chefs (who also are the owners) know their ingredients well, and they definitely succeed in carrying out their mission with flavourful, delicate, and enticing courses.

Overall, Ti Trin Ned is one of the best Danish restaurants, we have visited.